What's It Like?

Some say the inner Mission District has undergone far more hipsterfication than gentrification -- the inevitable result of a surfeit of moderate rents, thrift stores, dive bars, coffeehouses, bookstores, art galleries and avant-garde theater.

The BART station at 16th and Mission is a great way to get there, but there is occasionally some parking towards 16th and South Van Ness.

Sights & Culture

The Roxie and Little Roxie: If you're in the mood for a flick, the Roxie consistently plays underground feature films and documentaries that you probably won't get to see anywhere else. 3117 16th St., near Valencia Street, (415) 863-1087. (Web site)
Dark days ahead for the Roxie? (5/05)

The Lab: Visit this no-frills gallery for experimental work by emerging and established artists. Fans of graffiti artist Barry McGee, a.k.a. Twist, should drop by to see a large mural that features his evocative, hollow-eyed characters. 2948 16th St., between Mission and Capp streets, (415) 864-8855. (Web site)

The Troll Window: A first-floor apartment window on 18th Street near Valencia acts as showcase and stage for a cast of wild-haired troll dolls, which appear in monthly scenes reflecting upcoming holidays or current events in popular culture. 18th St., between Valencia and Mission streets.

Victoria Theatre: Built in 1908, this San Francisco landmark and former vaudeville house stages plays, shows films and hosts lectures and readings, mostly tending toward to avant-garde. 2961 16th St., at Capp Street, (415) 863-7576. (Web site)

Restaurants

Andalu: The sky and cloud mural on the ceiling at Andalu invites a hip and youthful crowd for eccentric tapas. Crowd faves are Coca-Cola braised ribs, baby beet, blood orange and arugula salad, and Castillian hot chocolate and donut hole for dessert. Portions are small, even by tapas standards, and prices add up quickly, but the quirky combinations and careful preparation make it a nice treat. 3198 16th St. at Guerrero. (415) 621-2211. (Chronicle review/Web site)

Al Hamra: An unpretentious tandoori restaurant, where the meat is halal, or certified to fit Muslim dietary law. You order at a counter that wraps around two tandoor ovens. And then the amazing food arrives: naan with two squeeze bottles of house-made chutneys -- fiery mint and a fruity, true-to-flavor tamarind -- plus tandoori, curries and vegetarian specials. Al Hamra does a ripping takeout business, but manages to create dishes that taste of care and subtlety. (Read full Chronicle write-up) 3083 16th St. (near Mission), (415) 621-3935.

Arinell Pizza: Cheap NY-style pizza with an ultrathin, crispy crust. Completely no-frills space and a punk rock attitude. 509 Valencia St. at 16th, (415) 255-1303.

Bar Tartine: This second location of the popular Guerrero Street bakery combines Tartine's Californian-Mediterranean style menu with a wine bar. Dark wood floors and tables, accented by creamy walls and a long bar overlooking the open kitchen. Dinner is served Tuesday-Sunday, with lunch coming soon. (-SF Chronicle) 561 Valencia St. (near 16th Street), (415) 487-1600. (Web site)

Cafe Istanbul and Amira: For lesser-quality Middle Eastern food but better atmosphere (including belly dancers), seat yourself on one of the red cushions at either of these twin restaurants (only a block from each other) Istanbul: 525 Valencia St., (415) 863-8854. Amira: 590 Valencia St., (415) 621-6213.

Cafe Macondo: If you'd rather sip a Mexican chocolate than booze and want to get a feel for what this corner of the Mission was like when brooding intellectuals and hard-nosed leftists ruled it a few years ago, stop by this café -- but get there before 9 pm, when it closes. 3159 16th St., (415) 431-7516.

Country Station Sushi: Owner Hiroko Tamano morphed what was once a tiny burger joint into a playful sushi joint. The tables are circa 1970, but the food is a mix of modern sushi and Japanese down-home cooking. The servers and chefs couldn't be more gracious. There are also seats on one of two platforms, if you'd rather eat cross-legged and sans shoes. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 12140 Mission St. (at Sycamore), (415) 861-0972. (Chronicle review)

El Toro Taqueria: El Toro (part of the Pancho Villa family) is a little pricey, but overall a nice, sunny corner taqueria. They slice (rather than dice) their tomatoes, the tortillas are a little thin, they lack the refried black bean appeal of their sister taqueria, and it's typically crowded enough that you may be holding your mojado burrito a minute or two. But the nachos and agua fresca are a safe bet, and the fresh salsa bar make it worth the wait. Oddities include beef with nopales (cactus). 598 Valencia St. at 17th. (415) 431-3351.

Il Cantuccio: The Mission isn't exactly known for its Italian delights, but Cantuccio provides a nice alternative to Mexican or Asian. This tiny, intimate ristorante serves up delicious antipasti, pasta, pizza, and ravioli dishes. Pizza is thin crust, and special raviolis include pumpkin and ricotta in sage butter sauce. Service is incredibly friendly, though very Italian (read: they take their time). 3228 16th St., between Dolores and Guerrero streets. (415) 861-3899.

Levende: Dark red walls, a crystal chandelier and cushy leather ottomans sidling up to dark mahogany tables set a plush, cozy scene at this nightclub-restaurant hybrid. A mounted flat screen TV loops a movie of tropical fish while diners dig into small plates with Mediterranean, Middle Eastern and Asian influences. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 1710 Mission St. (at Duboce), (415) 864-5585. (Chronicle review / Web site)

Limon: Peruvian-inspired cuisine, such as ceviches and lomo saltado, with California ingredients. Chef Martin Castillo and his family have collectively have worked at Aqua, Rubicon, Mecca, Sol y Luna and ThirstyBear. This new space, with high ceilings and long bar, has a spacious feel, and it's also retained the lively lime green and tangerine color scheme of the old (17th and Valencia) location. 524 Valencia St. (between 16th and 17th streets), (415) 252-0918. (Chronicle review / Web site)

Little Star Pizza: Be it deep-dish or thin crust you seek, this pizzaria will steal your heart—and stomach. Try the thin-crust White Pie, delivered to the table bubbling hot, with a shatteringly crisp crust blanketed with a smidge of tomato sauce and topped with feta, mozzarella, tomatoes and zucchini. 400 Valencia St., at 15th St., (415) 551-7827. (Chronicle review)

Maverick American Eatery & Wine Bar: The food is American with coast-to-coast inspiration -- think dishes like Baltimore crab fluffs to pan-roasted wild Columbia River sturgeon -- while the wine list encompasses the world. The cozy space has tall wood-framed windows that brighten the dark chocolate brown and warm pumpkin-colored walls and oak floor. Down-home desserts include peach crisp a la mode and a root beer float. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 3316 17th St. (between Mission and Valencia), (415) 863-3061. (Chronicle review / Web site)

Panchitas #2: This is a friendly place for Salvadoran food (including pupusas -- basically, corn pancakes with cheese) and delicious tropical fruit juices. 3091 16th St. (415) 431-4232.

Pakwan: This Tandoor-loin favorite's Mission outpost has the same good, spicy Pakistani food and the same no-frills, order-at-the-counter, get-your-own-silverware service, but definitely has Mission crowds. Try the eggplant bengan bharta Pakwan style, the chicken makhani or the lamb achar gosht. 3182 16th St. (near Guerrero); (415) 255-2440. (Chronicle review)

Picaro: This place is always hoppin' and dishes up good tapas and a potent sangria. 3120 16th St., near Valencia St., (415) 431-4089.

Pork Store Cafe Valencia: Famous for their location in the Haight, the Pork Store opened up shop in former Bitteroot location. Outdoor seating, plenty of greasy breakfast items, and a full bar help the hungover hipster crowd. Menu highlights include vegetarian chorizo, potato pancakes, mimosas and Bloody Marys (who could ask for better hangover medicine?). 3122 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia streets. (415) 626-5523.

Puerto Alegre: Secondary perhaps to individual taqueria preferences in SF is a person's sit-down Mexican favorite. Puerto Alegre is at the top of its game, offering some of the best margaritas, chile rellenos, mojado burritos, quesadillas, and chips and salsa in town. Expect a lengthy wait most evenings, especially Friday and Saturday, which can be eased with a drink at a couple of nearby bars. Atmosphere is loud and crazy, as it should be, with occasional visits from neighborhood Mariachi bands. 546 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th streets. (415) 255-8201.

Regalito Rosticeria: This colorful, Mexico City–style cafe serves regional Mexican with an eco-friendly ingredient twist: free-range chicken and Nieman Ranch beef. Standouts include the chile verde and pollo con mole negro, happily paired with a kicky agave margarita. 3481 18th St., at Valencia St., (415) 503-0650. Closed Mondays. (Chronicle review | Website )

The Sunflower: Tasty, hearty Vietnamese food at low prices. The setting is simple but comfortable, and the staff is friendly. 3111 16th St. (additional entrance at 506 Valencia St.), (415) 626-5022.

Ti Couz: Sweet or savory, this Breton-style creperie makes them thin and serves them fresh. Basic buckwheat (savory) or wheat (sweet) crepes with butter start at $2 and tick upward with each addition. Try a dessert in a glass: a crunchy crepe cone with choice of assorted gelatos, sorbets, mousses and fruit compotes. Cold seafood, charcuterie and cheese plates also available. (-SF Chronicle) 3108 16th St., near Valencia St., (415) 252-7273. (Chronicle review)

Tokyo Go-Go: Excellent seasonal sushi and small plates, including signature tuna tartare, Kobe beef tataki and seasonal specials. Fun and offbeat decor. For happy hour, the restaurant offers $3 hand rolls to munch with cocktails. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 3174 16th St., (415) 864-2288. (Chronicle review)

Truly Mediterranean: Some of the best falafel in the Bay Area can be found at Truly Mediterranean. Most sandwiches are wrapped in big pieces of thin flatbread, stuffed with shawarma or falafel and tahini sauce and onions. Say yes when your falafel maker asks if you want hot sauce; extra eggplant or fried potatoes (50 cents each) also are a nice touch. This is a great place for vegetarians and for night owls, as it's open until midnight Friday and Saturday and 11 p.m. Monday-Thursday. (-SF Chronicle) 3109 16th St., (415) 252-7482. (Bargain Bites 2004)

Yamo: A tiny, counter-only Burmese restaurant. The food fuses the tastes of India and China in dishes like spiced fried rice and wok-tossed noodles with curry, both specialties. The place is family run and owned, and there can be waits as the orders pile up and two cooks hover furiously over the tiny stove, but the owner and customers seem happy to socialize. There's a good dose of spice in most of the food, so ask the staff to pop open the top of a fresh young coconut to cool your palate. 3406 18th St., (415) 553-8911. (Chronicle review)

Shopping

Clothes, Accessories, Etc.

Candy Store: Before 7-11s and corner stores, people got candy all in one shop. That's the idea behind this newly-opened store that sells a little bit of everything for women. You can shop for women's shoes, clothes (ranging from $34 for shirts to $160 for dresses) and accessories, plus inexpensive retro-y gifts like shot glasses, sunglass cases and stationery. You can, in fact, also buy candy -- behind the register in old-time glass canisters are hard-to-find candy necklaces, Gold Mine gum, wax lips, Abba Zaba taffy and more. 3153 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia streets. (415) 863-8143. (Web site)

Clothes Contact: The starting point for the hipster looking for that authentically distressed '60s leather jacket, golf sweater or super-tacky polyester ensemble. Many items are sold by the pound or the sackful at this cavernous store, which gives starving artists the opportunity to load up on style. (-SF Chronicle) 473 Valencia St., (415) 621-3212.

Hideo Wakamatsu USA: Star luggage designer Hideo Wakamatsu's first U.S. store welcomes customers with an automated voice biding "Welcome" in Japanese. Travel accessories include suitcases, backpacks, small bags, briefcases, and messenger bags. Known for hard-sided cases made out of ABS plastic and colorful prints, Wakamatsu aims to make the "getting there" part of travel more fun. Most lines range from around $175 to $350. 563 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th streets. (415) 255-3029. (Web site)

Idol Vintage: The '80s have returned with a vengeance, and no store is more up on the decade than Idol Vintage, which boasts leg warmers, boxy sweaters and sweatshirts ripe for the "Flashdance" treatment. Those looking to add just the right retro accents browse leisurely through racks of coats, pants, sweatshirts, jeans, dresses and slips. Don't forget to check out the belt buckles, jewelry cases and other relics you thought you'd never see again. (-SF Chronicle) 3162 16th St., (415) 255-9959.

Sunhee Moon: Local designer Sunhee Moon's well-made women's line includes pants, skirts, and tops in classic, clean cuts. Her clothes are somewhere between dress-casual and professional, and are priced in the mid-range ($98 for tops and skirts). Items are neatly arranged by color around the periphery of the store. Accessories all come from local designers, and all of Moon's clothes are made in the area. 3167 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia streets. (415) 355-1800. (Web site)

Home

Aldea: Owner Johanna Bialkin calls her style "urban organic," and the store's pieces reflect her world travels. Some standouts include tin and beaded wall lights and chandeliers from Morocco; a table and lounge chair by Virginian Anthony Brozna, exclusive to Aldea; and silk-quilted bedcovers in four color combinations from Dreamsacks. Much of the store's glassware -- drinking glasses, vases and bowls -- is made by a collaborative of Portuguese glassblowers known as Mglass. Stay tuned for seasonally-changing room vignettes, meet-the-artist receptions, revolving gallery exhibitions and products that support nonprofit groups. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 3338 17th St. (between Valencia and Mission), (415) 865-9807. (Web site)

Architectural Elements: Modern-contemporary furniture made by a number of high-end designers comes in shapes of clean, geometric glass, fabric and wood. The natural-light and white wall store feels a bit like a museum, where you can't touch anything, either because it's too delicate or too expensive. But a few ceramic vases, candles and body lotions and soaps in the $20 range rest along the back wall. 573 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th street. (415) 252-8370. (Web site)

Therapy: Specializing in everything retro-contemporary, this eclectic store stocks a tempting array of new and used furniture, home accessories, kitschy knickknacks and clothing. 545 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th streets, (415) 861-6213.

Books, etc.

Adobe Book Shop: This musty, dusty museum of a used bookstore is a Mission must. The backroom gallery features obscure local artists, and Adobe often opens the shop at night for live music. Be careful not to trip over anything, as the aisles are very narrow, but surprise yourself by grabbing a random book off the shelf and plop down in one of their (perhaps too) comfortable chairs. 3166 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia street. (415) 864-3936 (Web site)

Good Vibrations: This friendly, women-owned sex-toy store is legendary for providing goods and information for men and women of all sexual persuasions. Check the Web site for a listing of upcoming classes and workshops. 603 Valencia Street (at 17th Street), (415) 522-5460 (Web site)

Needles and Pens: This book and zine shop has a do-it-yourself vibe. The "needles" refers to homemade clothes and accessories, including knit scarves and locally designed shirts. The "pens," of course, implies writing. Browse a wide variety of local and national glossies and Xeroxed readables. 3253 16th St., (415) 255-1534 (Web site)

Paxton Gate: At first glance, Paxton Gate appears to be a sort of independent Nature Company-type place, but on closer scrutiny, customers begin to notice the large display of unusual insects mounted on pins and various taxidermed creatures, some in dramatic costumes and poses. 824 Valencia St., between 19th and 20th streets, (415) 824-1872. (Web site)

Socialist Action Bookstore: The place to go for an undiluted dose of Marx, Malcolm X, Che Guevara and their ilk. Catch up on the latest plot to overthrow the government or oppress workers, or read up on capitalism or the history of labor strikes. (-Bonnie Wach) 298 Valencia St., (415) 255-1081. (Web site)

Nightlife

Blondie's Bar and No Grill: Purple neon decor, sidewalk seating and an extensive martini menu distinguish this see-and-be-seen Mission hangout, which is often ridiculously overcrowded on weekends. 540 Valencia St., between 16th and 17th streets, (415) 864-2419.

Casanova: A lounge in the essential sleazy/kitschy/slick sense of the word, with tongue-in-cheek decor that somehow ventures into classy. Behind the bar, you'll find local microbrews as well as the classics on tap, and an unusual cocktail special that changes daily. On Friday and Saturday nights, the place often goes beyond comfortably crowded and borders on spring break-ish. (-Jan Richman) 527 Valencia St., near 16th Street, (415) 863-9328.

Dalva: This hipster haven, which serves a good, fruit-laden sangria, has a long bar in a narrow, high-ceilinged space, with a more intimate room tucked away in the back. 3121 16th St., between Valencia and Guerrero streets, (415) 252-7740. (Web site)

Delerium: A dive bar for the Marina-Mission types. A smaller, perhaps divier alternative to the rockers across the street at Kilowatt. Cheap drinks make this a good place to start the night. 3139 16th St., between Guerrero and Valencia streets. (415) 552-5525.

Esta Noche: Latino transvestites flock here for rousing nightly drag shows. 3079 16th St., at Mission Street (415) 861-5757.

The Uptown: The unpretentious Uptown has some broken-down sofas to lounge on, in addition to booths, with a pool table in the other room. The clientele often includes a strong bike-messenger element. 200 Capp St., at 18th Street, (415) 861-8231.

Updated by Jeff Hunt, special to SF Gate, 7/05