What's It Like?

Ever get jealous of college students? In addition to all of the great aspects of college life like the people, the sense of community and the learning (let alone not having to work full-time), they have access to an ever-changing kaleidoscope of cultural activities -- right under their noses. This couldn't be more true than on the UC Berkeley campus.

Cal has a wide variety of sights, sounds, and scenes to dive into. You could spend a few days just experiencing the museums or the intricate and beautiful architecture. Many of the world's greatest thinkers, movers and shakers, as well as regular folks -- including both my parents (hi mom!) -- have walked the paths of California's first major college.

Sights & Culture

Before you head out, get to know UC Berkeley's general layout. The campus is bordered roughly by Bancroft Way (on the south), Oxford Street (west), Hearst Avenue (north), and (on the eastern edge) Gayley Road. To identify buildings and landmarks, try out this useful, interactive campus map.

Cal's official "front door" is Sather Gate. Built in 1910, it's perhaps one of Cal's most famous landmarks. It stands about 100 yards from where Telegraph Avenue dead ends into Bancroft Way.

Before walking through, however, you may want to check out Sproul Hall, located behind you and to your right, in front of Sproul Plaza. This huge 1941 building, fronted by four large Roman columns, is named after the first Californian and alumnus of the University to serve as UC president (1930-58), Robert Gordon Sproul. It houses the Admissions, Student Activities, and other school support offices.

After taking in the beauty of Sproul Hall, walk back down the steps onto Sproul Plaza. Stop in the center next to Ludwig's Fountain (named after a dog who spent most of his life at the fountain in the 1960s) and take a slow, 360 degree turn. You are now standing in a historic spot, known for anti-war demonstrations, street musicians, and religious zealots.

Now you're ready to take a tour of the rest of the campus.

Sather Tower: Built in 1914, Sather Tower, also known as Campanile, is the largest structure visible from almost anywhere in Berkeley (and parts of the East Bay). Standing 307 feet, the tower was modeled after one that stands in the Piazza San Marco in Venice, Italy. Also named after campus benefactor Jane Sather, Campanile has 61 bells in a carillion that are played at 7:50 a.m., noon, and 6 p.m. daily. On Sundays, there is a concert at 2 p.m.

Guided tours are available on Saturdays (at 10 a.m.) and Sundays (1 p.m.), but you don't need to take the tour to go up the tower. The tower is open Monday - Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. There is a $1 charge to ride the elevator to the top observation deck. (website)

Next, be sure to wander through the trees in the Campanile Esplanade, directly in front of Sather Tower. These trees are London Planes, a hybrid of sycamores that were moved here in 1916 from the grounds of the Panama-Pacific Exposition in San Francisco -- yes, the same expo responsible for the Palace of Fine Arts.

Gilman Hall: This building, located to the east of Sather Tower on Birge Street, should be the next stop on your architecture tour. Built in 1917, it is the oldest of the surviving chemistry buildings. It is also, for better or for worse, the building that housed Nobel laureates Glann Seaborg and Edwin McMillan, the discoverers of plutonium.

Hearst Memorial Mining Building: Directly north of Gillman Hall is the Mining Building. Designed in 1907 to be the largest facility in the world devoted to mining education, it underwent a major renovation in 2002 and now has high-tech new classrooms and labs for materials science and nanoengineering research. The Memorial Gallery inside features skylights and arches decorated with painstakingly restored Guastavino tiles.

To the west of the Mining Building is the McLaughlin and O'Brien Hall Breezeway. Why stop in a breezeway? Because here you can push buttons that activate displays of hydraulic principles, but only between the hours of 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays.

Be sure to visit Davis Hall next, which is located a little northeast of the breezeway. Don't miss the bronze bears (in the grassy esplanade if front) which were a gift of alumnus A. John Macchi, class of '36.

To the southeast, down Gayley Road, is Bowles Hall, a castle-like structure built in 1929. This structure is nestled into the hills near Hearst Greek Theatre and it was the first dormitory on campus built for men (it's the only men-only dorm left). It was a gift (many people seem to give buildings as gifts -- if I could be so lucky!) from Mary McNear Bowles in memory of her husband.

Hearst Greek Theatre: This 8,500-seat amphitheater set in the hills is the first campus structure designed by campus architect John Galen Howard. Built in 1903, this theatre was also a gift, this time from newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst. It's built like the amphitheaters of ancient Greece, but its large columns reflect Roman architecture as well. This is a great summer music theatre, where acts like Elvis Costello and Tracy Chapman have played, but it's also the site of Charter Day celebrations, commencements, the Big Game (against arch rival Stanford) bonfire rally and other University events.(website)

California Memorial Stadium: Just south of the Greek Theatre on Stadium Rim Way, the Memorial Stadium is where the Cal Bears football team does its thing. Built in 1923 by Howard, the stadium was constructed in less than a year after a massive statewide funding drive (try to get that done today) for the Big Game.

It seats 76,000 fans and is dedicated to the University students who lost their lives in World War I. The Memorial Stadium has a Hall of Fame which is free and open to the public on the first Thursday of every month, from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Recreational Sports Facility: If walking around the campus wasn't enough exercise, then perhaps a dip in the Spieker Pool, a game of squash, or a lesson in ballroom dancing or massage will fulfill your sporting needs. You can also catch the Cal Water Polo team here. Most of the classes and sports are located in the main building (2301 Bancroft Way at Ellsworth Street), while others are off-campus at spots throughout Berkeley.

Day passes are available for non-students, or you can sign up for a Community membership. For questions or registration information, call (510) 643-5151. (website)

There are dozens of other buildings and places on campus to visit, but it would take a book to list them all. Your best bet is to strap on a backpack filled with snacks, grab your walking shoes and explore the area. Some noteworthy spots to dedicate more time to, such as museums and libraries, are listed below.

Libraries & Museums:

Bancroft Library: The Bancroft Library has a collection dating back to the '50s -- the 1850s, that is. It was built in 1948, has rare books and archives featuring early Californian (including the state's first mined gold nugget) and Mexican history, and also maintains the world's largest collection of Mark Twain papers. If those aren't enough reasons to stop by and browse, then perhaps the 54 million manuscripts, 345,000 books, 70,000 pamphlets and 2 million lithographs, photographs, drawings and paintings will catch your attention. The library, which is located roughly in the middle of campus, is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays and 1 p.m. to 5 p.m. Saturday. (510) 642-6481 (reference desk), (510) 642-3781 (administration office). (website)

Doe Library: This library holds more than 3 million volumes and is located in the center of campus near the Memorial Glade, a memorial to Cal alumni, faculty and staff who served in World War II. Doe, built in 1917, houses the research collection in humanities and social sciences. A four-story underground addition opened in 1995 to provide more space for future volumes. Two stunning visual aspects of this library are its ornate ceiling and the enormous 1854 painting called "Washington Rallying the Troops at Monmouth," located on the far wall of the adjacent Government and Social Science Information Service room. The painting, by Emanuel Gottlieb Leutze, is a companion piece to the famous "Washington Crossing the Delaware," which hangs in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. (website)

Cory Hall: This is the place for all computer geeks or computer geeks in training. Built in 1950, this building is not only worth a look on the walking tour for its computer chip-inspired design, but it also houses ongoing displays of state-of-the-art electronic micro-fabrication, integrated circuitry, lasers, and robotics. Displays are on the second and fourth floors, and open to the public between 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays.

Phoebe Hearst Museum of Anthropology: This is the place to explore the diversity of human cultures from around the world (of course, you can do this on the streets of San Francisco or Berkeley any day of the week). Traveling exhibits from around the world, as well as permanent displays, supplement the fine collections of artifacts from native Californians, ancient Egyptians and pre-Columbian Peruvians.

The museum has tours, frequent lectures and events, and a museum store.

Located at 103 Kroeber Hall, near the corner of Bancroft Way and College Avenue on the UC Campus. The museum is open from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Wednesday - Sunday, and general admission is free (one-hour guided tours are $5 for adults, $2 for those under 18). On Thursdays the museum stays open until 9 p.m. 103 Kroeber Hall (510) 642-3682. (website)

Also worth a look in Kroeber Hall is the Worth Ryder Art Gallery, which exhibits artwork by students and faculty. It's open Tuesday - Friday from 1p.m. to 4 p.m. throughout the academic year.

Valley Life Sciences Building: The VLSB has a variety of archaeological and anthropological goodies in its collection. One of the main attractions is the large dinosaur located in the Museum of Paleontology. This building, originally built in 1930 but since renovated, occupies three acres and houses 400,000 square feet of new classrooms, lectures halls, labs and offices. Although most of this space is dedicated to students, visitors are welcome to the Museum of Paleontology. Call (510) 642-1821 for visiting information.(website)

Off-Campus Sights:

Not all the great buildings and things to do are located on the campus. There are many sites, activities, must-see tours, and museums that are located off-campus, though they are still part of the University system. Below are just a few that are definitely worth a look.

Lawrence Hall of Science: The Lawrence Hall of Science, built in 1968 and named after Berkeley's first Nobel laureate Ernest O. Lawrence, is worth a trip up the hill. This is a public science museum and center for research, which means we non-scientists can visit. It's a perfect place to take the kids, since they have many hands-on demonstrations and interactive exhibits, games, labs and classes. Be sure to check out the interactive dinosaur displays. Open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Admission ranges from $2 for kids under 12, $4 for students, and $6 for non-students and adults. Centennial Dr. (510) 642-5132. (website)

Berkeley Art Museum: There are 11 galleries here, all connected by ramps and stairs, plus the popular Pacific Film Archive (see below) and a sculpture garden. The museum opened in 1970 and is a piece of art in itself. The form of the building is fan-shaped, drawn from a radial plan, which gives easy access from all levels. There are ongoing exhibits and public programs, as well as a permanent collection of Hans Hoffman paintings. There is also an on-site shop and Cafe Muse (see listing in restaurants).

Gallery hours are 11 a.m. - 5 p.m. Wednesday - Sunday, and 11a.m. - 9 p.m. on Thursday. The museum is closed on Monday and Tuesday. The fee is $6 and free for children under 12. 2626 Bancroft Way, (510) 642-0808. (website)

Strawberry Canyon Recreation Area: Located in the hills above the campus and the Lawrence Hall of Science, this multiple-use facility is known mostly for its two outdoor public swimming pools (one for lap swimming, the other for children). Hours are from Noon - 5:55 p.m. weekdays, and 11 a.m. - 3:45 p.m. on weekends. The fee to swim is $4. (510) 643-6720. (website)

Botanical Garden: Past Strawberry Canyon is the 34-acre Botanical Garden, which holds about 13,000 species of plants. The species are organized according to regions of the world, and the garden has a great collection of native Californian plants. Bring a picnic basket and some money for the bookstore and admission ($3 for non-students, free on Thursdays). Be sure to check out the conservatory (for tropical plants) and the Chinese medicinal herb garden.

The garden is open from 9 a.m. - 4:45 p.m. every day of the year expect Christmas. Tours are also available on Thursday, Saturday and Sunday. Call (510) 643-2755. (website)

Restaurants

OK, after all that walking it's time to take a break and refuel. Like most college campuses, good food is not necessarily part of the curriculum. Those in the know (including one anonymous Sather Tower volunteer) say to avoid all on-campus eateries. But, as a service to adventure-seekers, here's a list of places that will serve a decent, inexpensive and filling meal.

Adagia restaurant: Lawrence Jossel of Chez Nous and Chow created a compact, brightly Californian menu in this historic space across from campus, which was designed by famed architect Walter Ratcliff in the '20s. (Jossel has since moved on to NoPa in San Francisco; Brian Beach is the new chef.) Start with the vegetable fritto misto or grilled hearts of romaine, then move on the the juicy-chewy flatiron steak or braised lamb shank. Four desserts and 12 wines, available by bottle or glass, round out the offerings. Why Adagia? The name refers to Erasmus of Rotterdam's collection of Latin and Greek adages, first published in Paris in 1500. Very Berkeley. A back patio is planned. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 2700 Bancroft Way (at College), (510)647-2300.

Cafe Muse: Owned by Berkeley coffee house honcho Daryl Ross of Caffe Strada fame, Cafe Muse has dedicated about a third of its menu to raw food, like lasagna made of vegetable noodles with sun-dried tomatoes and raw cashew ricotta, and sushi rolls with a crunchy mixture of fresh vegetables with wasabi. For traditionalists, there are cooked soups and sturdy sandwiches made with sustainably grown meats from Niman Ranch and Diestel. Wash it down with fair-trade coffee, fresh juice and lemonade or organic sake -- all very Berkeley and very good. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) Lunch daily (open until 7 p.m. Thursdays) 2625 Durant Ave. (near College Avenue),(510)548-4366.

Caffe Strada: This is off the main drag, but worth finding for its coffee and decadent pastries. It also has a pleasant outdoor seating area right on the corner. Try the Bianca (white chocolate) Mocha. 2300 College Avenue (Bancroft Way & College Avenues), (510) 843-5282.

Cesar E. Chavez Student Center: If you miss student food or have yet to experience campus cuisine, visit any of the walk-up windows here. Average pizza and sandwiches are the norm, as are the mingling street performers who get their chow here.

International House: Since 1930, the "I" house has been the home to international and American students, as well as a social center and cafe. It has a distinctive Spanish and Moorish look to it, and is conveniently located near Memorial Stadium. If you're lucky, you might be able to dine with a visiting scholar from one the 70 countries that frequently send students and professors here. 2299 Piedmont Avenue, (510) 642-9456.

Le Bistro Elephant: Buttermilk onion rings with a crumble of queso cotija and chipotle ketchup, heirloom tomatoes with house-made mozzarella and smoked salt, duck confit tacos and Peeky Toe crab cakes with an avocado-lemon-cucumber puree are among the inventions of former Carnelian Room chef Garret Martindale, now executive chef at this casual California small-plates restaurant. Desserts include fresh-baked cookies with Straus ice cream and huckleberry cake with vanilla mascarpone. (-SF Chronicle) 2134 Oxford St. (between Center and Allston), (510) 849-1423.

New Lucky House: Promoted as home-style Thai and Lao cooking, New Lucky House's menu offers more than the usual Thai standbys. Dishes like hoy mo din, a clay pot with green-lip mussels in a lemon grass broth, are bargain-priced and come in generous portions. Also try the more traditional tom kha soup, Chicken with Thai sweet basil and fresh chiles or the spicy prawn salad, but leave room for dessert, especially the well-caramelized fried bananas with two generous scoops of vanilla ice cream. The simple but immaculately clean space offers a choice of views: Secure a table near the window, you get a parading view of University Avenue denizens; if you sit further back, you can watch goldfish in a sparkly tank. (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 140 University Ave. (between Oxford Street and Shattuck Avenue), (510) 841-8900. (Chronicle review

Nightlife

If you're still not tired after doing everything there is to do during the day, then head out for some evening culture or nightlife.

Pacific Film Archive: Throughout the year more than 800 films are shown, and the Archive highlights rare movies that you won't find at Blockbuster or the multiplex. Though the theater seats 234 people, it's still surprisingly intimate. This is the best and cheapest place to get your foreign film fix. Admission is $6 for one film, $7.50 for double bills. Part of the Berkeley Art Museum. 2626 Bancroft Way, (510) 641-1124. (website)

Julia Morgan Theater: This small theater holds dance, music (including acoustic sets) and theater performances. 2460 College Avenue, (510) 84-JULIA. (website)

Zellerbach Hall/Cal Performances:The hall has it all: a 2,000-seat auditorium, where ballets, dances and symphonies are performed, and a 500-seat playhouse. 101 Zellerbach Hall, (510) 642-9988. (website)

Blakes: If you want to experience life with the college crowd, this restaurant has a downstairs nightclub will all sorts of music, from soul and hip-hop to rock. 2367 Telegraph (near Bancroft), (510) 848-0886.

Ian Stewart, Special to SF Gate