What's It Like?

Solano Avenue winds from the lovely Thousand Oaks district of Berkeley to the auto repair shops, strip malls and dive bars of San Pablo Avenue. On its way, it serves the needs of the elegant Berkeley hills and the small, thriving middle-class town of Albany.

While you could say it's just another shopping area, it's much more than that. For one thing, it's dominated by small businesses. Some of them are family-run institutions, while others represent starry-eyed local residents reaching for a dream.

In general, though, the people you deal with have some sort of personal connection to where they work, which makes wandering along Solano very different from a trip to your local mall. Solano's businesses also reflect the area's diversity, especially in the home furnishings stores and the dozens of restaurants. You can find spots that are upscale, down home, unique or possibly all three; it was impossible to cover all the good ones here.

Albany itself boasts many distinctive attractions among the restaurants and small businesses of many varieties: the near East Bay's only bowling alley, the huge racetrack and the wildest bit of shoreline (in an urban kind of way) for miles. A mile and a half square, Albany is truly a small town in the midst of the megapolis known as the Bay Area. It combines good schools and the kind of police department that questions skateboarders with international residents, an active community and, yes, a cultural life.

Solano Avenue Association Web site: solanoave.org

Sights & Culture

Albany Bowl: With 36 lanes, junior bowling leagues, the East Bay Blazers team, tournaments and a pro shop, Albany Bowl is real bowling for real bowlers. Of course, there are lots of other attractions: there are six pool tables rentable by the hour, and the coffee shop serves Thai food as well as the usual greasy breakfast and lunch fare. The noise from the arcade games can be irritating, so be sure you get lots of strikes to drown it out. 540 San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 526-8818. Web site

Albany Sauna and Hot Tubs: Albany Sauna (as it was originally named) has been providing relief to the stressed-out East Bay since 1934, when it was opened by homesick Finns. The smoke from the furnace no longer stays in the room with you and tubs were added in the '70s, but it's still a health haven. The saunas are traditional Finnish-style natural rock steam models and the tubs are open to the sky; Swedish/Esalen massage and other spa amenities are available. 1002 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 525-626. (Web site)

Albany Twin: Owned by Landmark, the Twin shows foreign and independent films of the more mass-market variety. The theaters are a decent size and are hardly ever crowded, so you don't need to worry about people's heads blocking your view of the subtitles. 1115 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 843-FILM. Web site

Albany Waterfront Park: A thin spit of land sticking out into the Bay between the racetrack and the freeway, the Waterfront Park, a.k.a. The Bulb, feels more than a little post-apocalyptic. Battered concrete and tangled nests of rebar stick up above the sagebrush, fennel and pampas grass. The area was recently inhabited by homeless people and artists, and there are still many signs of their presence, including tracks leading mysteriously into the brush toward the remains of some ad hoc dwelling places. Add sweeping views of the bay, from Richmond to Alcatraz, a sizable population of shore birds, a small beach and homemade driftwood benches with spectacular views, and you've got an urban-wilderness experience like no other. Occasional guerrilla art exhibits. West from Albany / Buchanan exit from 80, past racetrack, park.

Golden Gate Fields: Ascot, it's not. What Golden Gate Fields lacks in royalty, it makes up for in utilitarian facilities and opportunities to gamble. With most of the people staying inside, betting at self-service terminals and glued to simulcasts of other races, the actual race taking place outside can seem like an also-ran. While you have to pay extra for carrels with individual monitors or box seats high above the track, anyone can get close to the horses. You can stand with a few others and watch the horses strut their stuff in the paddock; if you stay close enough to get a sense of the individual horses and riders and the drama of the owners' expectations, you can have a good time without wagering your future. There's a brouhaha going on about the possible development of the underused north parking lot; there may be a casino or mall there in the future, or then again there may not. 1100 Eastshore Hwy., Albany, (510) 559-7300. (Web site)

Oaks Theater: A nice Art Deco theater divided into a mere two small theaters, showing first-run films. Usually at least one of them is aimed at the family market. 1875 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 526-1836.

Restaurants

Ajanta: Delicious Indian food in elegant, relaxing surroundings. The staff makes you feel not only welcome but loved. 1888 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 526-4373. (Chronicle review)

Bui: Named by and for chef-owner Patrick Bui, who also owns Saigon City on Telegraph Avenue in Berkeley, the restaurant has a compact menu of updated Vietnamese traditionals, from spring rolls to soups, salads, such as a toothsome shredded banana flower salad, to rice plates. The presentations are eye-pleasing, and the ingredients are sparkling fresh and clean-tasting. Beer and wine are also served. (-SF Chronicle) 1647 Solano Ave. (near Ventura), (510) 528-8878.

China Village: Is it the best Sichuan in the Bay Area, possibly one of the few best in this country? Is it too oily and salty? MUST it be too oily and salty to be authentic? The online foodies have to agree to disagree. I say: wander over, order off the Sichuan menu for non-Mandarin treats such as sesame bread and various lamb dishes (and, incidentally, a long list of organ meats), consult with the knowledgeable and patient staff as needed, and enjoy. Your lips may get a little scorched but it's worth it. 1335 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 525-2285.

Fonda: The mood is flashy, fun, and lively; the food delicious and original. A long bar downstairs invites you to stop by for a margarita and find a Margarita or a Manuel to chat with. Aluminum tables and a lavender-painted wall give the place a hip, modern feeling. Most will enjoy ordering one of Fonda's many rum or tequila drinks and several of the antojitos. The Oaxacan masa "cigars" with chorizo and potato taste fine with the cucumber, jicama, chili, and lime dish. You can also have dinner here or come for a weekend brunch. 1501-A Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 559-9006. (Chronicle Review)

Jodie's: Jodie's offers breakfast, lunch and barbeque in Solano's tiniest space. It's a neighborhood place, in fact a neighborhood secret, with many dishes named after regulars. There's a menu of sorts on the wall, which is different from the printed menu, but no matter what fried chicken is only on the weekends. Good cheer is available at all times. 902 Masonic Ave. at Solano, Albany, (510) 526-1109. (Web site)
Chronicle article: Diminutive diner heaps up helpings of ham, eggs and humor -- family-style

Lao-Thai Kitchen: You want something a little exotic; your friend hankers for down-home, all-American food. No problem if you can get yourself to this charmingly wood-paneled spot. Kham P. Daniel, a Laotian chef, serves up generous portions of Lao and Thai food, while the chef's African American husband, Earl Daniel, cooks up meaty ribs and hot links served with candied yams, cornbread and collard greens. Even if you and your dining partner pick different cuisines, you might both agree on a glass of Woodbridge wine or a good imported beer to wash it all down. (-SF Chronicle) 1406 Solano Ave. (near Santa Fe), Albany; (510) 559-3276. (Chronicle Review)

Lola's: Chef-owner John Janachek is a gruff perfectionist known both for his unsurpassed roast chickens and a manner that makes you think the Soup Nazi has a distant cousin in Berkeley. The menu is simple -- thin-crust pizzas, soups, salads and beautiful baked goods augmenting the centerpiece chickens. The cooking is homey and expert. It's best to call ahead and reserve a chicken. Curmudgeonly tendencies notwithstanding, Lola's does them right and they tend to sell out. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 1585 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 558-8600. (Chronicle Review)

Mangia Mangia: A very comfortable, nicely designed place for some tasty Italian food. It's a great date restaurant: the ambiance is romantic, and watching the chefs prepare the food in the open kitchen can give you something to talk about if you run out of conversation. Don't miss the appetizer platter. 755 San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 526-9700. (Chronicle Review)

Nizza La Bella: Despite the Italian-sounding name, it's an outpost of francophility: mussels, sidewalk seating with heat lamps, and special dinners to celebrate the arrival of the Beaujolais Nouveau. The restaurant is very nicely done and definitely ups the ante on Solano and San Pablo. 827 San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 526-2552. (Chronicle Review)

Peet's: A center of activity on Solano. Not the very first Peet's (that's on Vine St.), but maintains the same look and quality. 1825 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 526-9607. (Web site)

PriPri Cafe: A tiny entrance and a long entryway hide an enormous open room and a small patio. Run by a Spanish and American couple, PriPri is the only neighborhood source for tapas or a real cappucino. They (usually) close by late afternoon and have no liquor license so it is not a spot for late-might munching, but they will pack you up a picnic or party to go. They do their best to stay organic and local; fresh juices are priced by the piece, and toast with garlic, tomato and olive oil could well change your breakfast habits. PriPri is also extremely kid-friendly, with a play area and goldfish by the scoop; they even go so far as to offer singalongs and parenting classes. 1309 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 528-7002. (Web site)

Renee's Place: Aside from stylish decor, which features photographs of Chinese monuments and glass-encased reproductions of ancient Chinese bronzes, what sets Renee's apart is the approach to food. No mystery meats here -- Petaluma Poultry and Niman Ranch meats are used exclusively in the Szechuan-Hunan cuisine, and whenever available, organic local produce goes into the stir-fries and vegetable entrees. A small wine selection lists what characteristics make a particular wine suited to Chinese food. (-SF Chronicle) 1477 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 525-2330. (Chronicle Review)

Rivoli: One of Solano's more elegant restaurants, Rivoli serves contemporary California cuisine with nods to American comfort food and the Mediterranean. One added plus is the lovely garden in back, which you can view through large plate-glass windows. Often the neighborhood raccoons, possums, cats and skunks (!) come to eat their evening meal as you're enjoying yours. 1539 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 526-2542. (Chronicle Review)

Sam's Log Cabin: Sam's is an oasis of tasty reinvented classic food and good strong (and organic) coffee, stuck next to a used-car lot and fronting on the highway-like San Pablo Avenue. The building looks like it's made out of Lincoln Logs and has been a cafe since the '30s. The interior pays loving tribute to the cafe's pedigree: egg beaters hang from the ceiling, the clocks and calendars are vintage, and there's a huge collection of bottled hot sauces to slop on your eggs. Your scone might be orange-fig and your sandwich slathered in tapenade, but the place is full of regulars and neighborhood types, the owner dispenses good cheer with the java, and the maple syrup is real. Breakfast and lunch only; patio seating in good weather. 945 San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 558-0594. (Chronicle Review)

Solano Cellars: A bistro in a wine shop, a wine shop with a bistro. A good selection, helpful staff and a monthly newsletter to assist with your wine selection. Classes and tastings are offered too. 1580 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 525-0379. (Web site)

Sophia Cafe: Flawless falafel, equally good hummus and baba ghanoush, Jewish baked goods. Kosher ingredients. Service good but can require patience. (-SF Chronicle) 1247 Solano Ave. Albany, (510) 526-8663. (Chronicle Review)

Sushi Sho: Justly famous for its sushi. If you're lucky -- or just doing the wrong thing in front of the sushi chef -- you may get an education in sushi-gobbling do's and don'ts. 1645 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 525-4551.

Tay Tah Cafe: A homey bit of Thailand for the neighborhood. Bright colors, comfy mismatched furniture, books and magazines make it pleasant; Mitchell's tropical-flavor ice cream, tapioca bubble teas and Asian and American snacks make it special. 1182 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 207-7064.

Walker's Restaurant and Pie Shop: Walker's was established in '64 but seems like it's been around since the '20s or so. Much more than just pies, it's a real old-fashioned institution. At breakfast, lunch and dinner you'll find both longtime favorites and nods to the Basy Area's changing palates. Long-time employee Jorge Sandoval recently took over, assuring Walker's devotees of many more years of soup, salad or jello, main course, rolls and, yes, pie. You can buy the pies whole or by the slice to take home. 1491 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 525-4647. (Chronicle Review)

Zachary's Chicago Style Pizza: People are insanely devoted to the Zachary approach to pizza, with a choice between thin and artery-clogging stuffed styles. It's always fresh and good, with many tasty toppings to choose from, and whole-wheat crust is available if you want to pretend you're eating something healthy. Beware: Zachary's is always busy, and at dinner time it's packed. Cash only; though takeout is available, they don't deliver. 1853 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 525-5950. (Chronicle Review/Web site)

For more Albany restaurants, check out these Chronicle reviews.

Shopping

Albany Aquarium: Albany Aquarium could very well charge admission to their warm, murky store. In the half light swim school upon school of fish: angel fish, morally questionable fish and tiny catfish that swim upside down; neon tetras, guppies and even an eel or two. Handy cards explain the habits, care and feeding of each type of fishie. There are aquariums, cabinets, plants, rocks, castles, algae-eating shrimp and everything else you could possibly need to fulfill your watery fantasies. 818 San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 525-1166. (Web site)

Albany Arts Gallery: Local artists in photography, glass, wood, pottery and jewelry show their wares here. You can pick up a lovely glass bowl, a greeting card featuring a real photo or a wooden sculpture. It may be nice to support local artists, but with such attractive incentives it's hardly difficult. 1251 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 526-9558.

The Bone Room: Bones from tiger teeth to entire skeletons, fossils, taxidermy, rocks, angel wings. Lots of other treats for natural history aficionados. 1569 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 526-5252. (Web site)
Chronicle article: Berkeley store would feel like home to Indiana Jones

By Hand: Women's and men's clothing, much by small local makers. The store started as a cooperative for East Bay artisans and though their merchandise has become international, they still remember their roots. 1741 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 526-3212.

Gathering Tribes: The knowledgeable owner of this store, who is part Yaqui, sells the arts and crafts of North America's Native people. Much of the work exquisite. For sale are fine Navajo jewelry, Ute and New Mexican pueblo pottery, flutes and drums. You can find a very unusual wedding gift here: the Zuni double coyote. Two animals are bound together and represent lifelong love and commitment. (Apparently coyotes, for all their wild reputation, mate for life.) The artists represented by the store, come here for shows of their work. 1573 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 528-9038.

High Cotton Living: High Cotton emphasizes beautiful linens and everything to upgrade their surroundings, from furniture to room spray. 1820 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 526-4770. (Web site)
Chronicle article: Nothing quite like it in the area

Kathmandu Imports: Everything you could want from the Himalayas but the jet lag: prayer flags, statues, hats, tapes, singing bowls, clothing (including some very Western-inspired designs), jewelry, pillows and more. 1551 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 528-8007.

Matsu Fine Natural Bedding: The entryway to this bedding and gift shop is home to a collection of Buddha reproductions set around indoor waterfalls. Fine, handmade bedding is displayed on traditional tatamis and on convertible wooden frame beds. Wool and cotton futons are made in up to 12 layers (two wool and 10 cotton) and in standard bed sizes. The futon and comforter covers are exceptionally beautiful and made to order. Also for sale: kimonos, teapots, tables, and small gift items. Related stores dot the Bay Area. (Web site)

New Pieces Quilt Store and Gallery: While it may look like a sewing store, with its shelves full of bolts of bright patterned fabric, New Pieces is actually closer to being a community center for the Bay Area's quilters, whose numbers and dedication you probably never suspected. Classes include dolls and crafts, and kids' classes, as well as a enormous variety of quilting classes. They specialize in color-saturated and Japanese fabrics, and can quilt or bind your quilt for you. 1597 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 527-6779. (Web site)
Chronicle article: Bay Area is home to heartland art of quilting

Pegasus Books and CDs: A great bookstore, with a good selection of new books completed by high-quality used books. Loads of cookbooks, nonfiction and spirituality; the highly opinionated "Staff Favorites" section is a lifeline for the indecisive. There's there's a wall full of mysteries and science fiction; they also sell CDs, graphic novels, and magazines. 1855 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 525-6888. (Web site)

Soap Sistahs: The Sistahs carry their own handmade soaps as well as other items to improve your bathing and sleeping environment, from lotions to glamorous PJs to aromatherapy candles. 1797 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 528-0837. (Web site)

Sotto Voce: Sotto Voce features Margaret O'Leary sweaters and other lovely and (usually) expensive items for the East Bay's relaxed, sophisticated look. They carry some menswear. 1845 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 525-5067.

Stash, Yarn + Inspiration: Stash falls into the follow-your-dream category of local business. With beautiful, unusually soft yarns including lustrous bamboo fiber and an extensive array of South American yarns, it's also definitely full of inspiration - or maybe just an incitement to fiber lust. The local moms who started it thought they could get yarn, but though they no longer have time to knit they do have time to get to know you; like many craft stores, Stash is part community center. Some classes and a monthly project. 1820 Solano Ave., Suite B-2, Berkeley, (510) 558-YARN. (Web site)

Sue Johnson Custom Lamps and Shades: The lamps and shades range from whimsical to stunning to subtle. Many of the lamps use found art objects such as African masks, ceramic artichokes, Arabian pipes, Chinese vases and even Mr. Peanut. The shades might be parchment, gorgeous translucent mica, Arts and Crafts papers or needlepoint. While prices aren't cheap, you do really get a bang for your buck. Everything here is hand made by artisans employed by the store. 1745 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 527-2623. (Web site)

Tibetan Gift House: An oasis of repose on busy Solano, Tibetan Gift house offers handmade gifts from the Himalayas: silk, wool, pashmina scarves, rugs, paper items, books on Buddhist spirituality for all ages, jewelry, musical instruments and recordings, and more. 1631 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 528-3277.

Wataya: A gem of a store selling fine Japanese bedding, including buckwheat-hull pillows. The beds and couches in the store are covered with lovely fabrics. Tables and lamps reflect simplicity, peace, and order. Zafu cushions range from Zen black, to lush gold-and-red abstract designs. 1412 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 527-8234. (Web site)

Zeba Home: Zeba's gorgeous pillows, bed linens, curtain panels, lamps, even handbags combine the vibrant colors, silk and sequins of traditional Indian handcrafts with modern designs. Because it's the only U.S. outpost of an Indian home decor maker (as well as the retail baby of a local couple), there's no middle man, and most items are available only at Zeba. Krsna Mehta, a young member of the manufacturing family, went to Fashion Institute of Technology and got some new ideas; we benefit. Oh yes, and the hand-knotted rugs made from New Zealand wool are luscious as well. 1820 Solano Ave., Suite B-1, Berkeley, (510) 558-0993. (Web site)

Kids and Teens

5 Little Monkeys: More toys than you would believe possible, somehow displayed attractively in a very small storefront. 5 Little Monkeys is the area's reliable source for birthday presents; you can always find the right thing for that 6-year-old, and their hours accommodate last-minute shoppers. They also offer online shopping. 1230 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 528-4411. (Web site)

A Child's Place: This well-stocked children's store carries clothing, gifts and toys ranging from the whimsical to educational. It's a fine place to go for baby shower gifts because the owners tend to give good advice (no, those fluffy pink slippers are for three year olds, not newborns). Clothing is made by, among others, Flapdoodles, Le Top, MulberriBush and Biscotti. 1898 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 524-3651.

Hannah's: A tiny resale shop at the top of Solano, Hannah's makes up for its lack of space by choosing its new and resale stock well. The used stuff is cheap and the new stuff is reasonable; they carry a lot of L'Amour's inexpensive yet decent-quality shoes. 1871 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 525-3488.

PriPri Cafe: See restaurants.

Sweet Potatoes Outlet: Sweet Potatoes manufactures irresistible clothing for children and infants, stocked by stores such as Nordstrom, and they have kindly opened a few stores where lots of their great stuff is available. You can find current season clothing at full price, past seasons' looks at a discount, and samples and flaws for very low prices. There's a gated play area with toys and books for the little ones, though it's the grown-ups and their credit cards who are more likely to run out of control. 2224 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 527-7975. (Web site)

Toy-Go-Round: Small on the outside but jam-packed with used and new stuff inside. Books, videos, learning tools and toys of all types: wood toys, plastic toys, stuffed animals, dolls, "licensed" toys (including Hiking Barbie and other treats), toys on wheels, beach toys, bath toys, and on and on and on. 1361 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 527-1363. (Web site)

Food & Wine Shopping

A.G. Ferrari's: An upscale Italian grocery selling sandwiches and meals ready to be taken home and eaten as well as wine, cheese, olives and some staples. You can find their house-label bread and crackers, Italian sweets, Illy coffee, and sliced meats as well. They carry some items that are hard to find elsewhere, and the prices are not unreasonable. 1843 Solano Ave., Berkeley, (510) 559-6860. (Web site)

Happy Produce Market: The woman behind the counter may look the opposite of happy, but you will be ecstatic once you discover Happy Produce's stock of frozen, bagged and bottled Asian grocery items. Search in vain for cuttlefish balls and spiced watermelon seeds no more. And yes, the produce is plentiful and well-priced. 1240 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 525-1571.

Odd Lots Wine Shop: The owner of this wine store specializes in wines that cost less than $10. If you're someone who drinks a glass every night with dinner, but can't afford the expensive labels, this is the place to come. Most wines are imported from France and Italy, with Spain, Portugal, and Chile also represented. A newsletter describes the choices in the most recent six-box sampler, with detailed descriptions of bottles that average out about $7.00! 1025 San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 526-0522.

Zand Market: A great small middle eastern market carrying Iranian dried fruit, Turkish coffee pots, kosher and halal poultry by special order, pastries, bulk grains, and all the little bottles and jars you might need to complete that Syrian dinner you've been wanting to make. Succulent eclairs and cream puffs too. 1401 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 528-8600.

Zarri's: In Albany since 1935, though not always in the same location, Zarri's sells everything you need to make great Italian food, most of it for very good prices. From prosciutto to penne to pecorino romano, you'll find it here, with a good selection of bargain wine to wash it down. Zarri's also does a great business in bare-bones sandwiches, and the lines can be long between 11 am and 2 pm. Every now and then an Italian-speaking customer will come in, and you'd swear you were in the old country. 1244 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 525-5405.

Nightlife

Club Mallard: A good down-home bar (and you know how rare those are!) drawing a younger crowd, PLUS a tiki patio with flaming torches and banana-leaf thatching. Paradise on San Pablo Avenue, including pool tables. 752 San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 524-8450.

Club Montero's: OK, it's a restaurant too, but these days Montero's is really adding to the excitement at Solano and San Pablo with solid salsa, merengue and reggaeton Thursday through Sunday. They offer classes, some DJ's, and, yes, real live bands. Mind the dress code! 1106 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 524-1270. (Web site)

Hotsy Totsy Club: Almost as good as its name, the Hotsy Totsy is a small dive bar in a tiny shack located on San Pablo. Bar stools at lots of mini-counters save your feet and let you talk to your fellow tipplers; shuffleboard and a pool table can entertain you when you get tired of them. San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 524-1661.

Ivy Room: A dive bar haunted by young hipsters, the Ivy Room books some excellent blues acts. 858 San Pablo Ave., Albany, (510) 524-9220.

The Pub: A truly homey pub, a magnet for local Brits. The rooms have comfortable chairs and sofas, and there's a fire in the fireplace most nights. The Pub is tobacco-friendly; they sell many mixtures of pipe tobacco, cigars and imported and domestic cigarettes. Guinness and other fine brews on tap and in bottles, wine by the glass and packaged pub snacks are offered. Many of the patrons seem to go there absolutely every day; you will probably want to move in too. 1492 Solano Ave., Albany, (510) 525-1900.

Kitty Luce, Special to SF Gate Updated 8/06