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Bohemian elegance
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Sabyasachi Mukherjee finds inspiration in his neighbourhood for his new collection
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SOLO CHARM Sabyasachi Mukherjee during Lakme India Fashion Week (LIFW) Photo: R.V. Moorthy
Hey! Here is Devdas. "No, no it's just that I could not find time to shave over the past few days," says a bearded Sabyasachi Mukherjee as the media teases the young face of Indian fashion.
But the Kolkata-based designer has a grouse. He has not been granted a solo show this year. "I was ready to pay the fees of the solo show but I was told I could not be accommodated. Though this is my third year still I am considered among the young lot."
Sabyasachi had an event-filled last year with his Frog Princess making waves at Lakme India fashion Week (LIFW) and Milan and this year his costumes in Black have already won him plaudits. However, Sabyasachi is not game to diversify fully. "I have created some space for myself on the international stage. I am getting lots of film offers including Sanjay Leela Bhansali's next film but I don't want to distract myself for a year at least. I don't want to ride two boats at a time."
This year Sabyasachi has found inspiration next door. "There are two Nair sisters living near my flat in Kolkata. Their mother passed away when they were young so they used to wear their father's oversized shirts." An interesting way to conjure up the image of voluminous shirts and tops which are in demand internationally. He calls his collection a melting pot of bohemianism and intellectualism with a fair sprinkling of humour and elegance. Layering has always been his strength but this time he has minimised it, "There won't be too much layering. People should realise that layering is just a mode of presentation rather than design. You put a jacket over a top and the look becomes layered." Sabyasachi is working with Swarovski but emphasises he is not promoting the brand. "I have used it judiciously combining with baroque beadwork and decadent velvets."
Known for taking glamour off his models, Sabyasachi is trying something different. "The models won't wear a glamorous look but unlike the distressed appearance of last year they will exude soft sensuality. We are using vintage jewellery by Amrapali to create the old world charm."
ANUJ KUMAR
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Metro Plus
Bangalore
Chennai
Coimbatore
Delhi
Hyderabad
Kochi
Madurai
Mangalore
Pondicherry
Tiruchirapalli
Thiruvananthapuram
Vijayawada
Visakhapatnam
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