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Weaves of yore

PUSHPA CHARIPUSHPA CHARI

The Crafts Council of India's sari show features ethnic creations


THOSE WHO wish to get a feel of the rich craft traditions of our country will be delighted to see the range of ethnically embellished saris at the exhibition-cum-sale organised by the Crafts Council of India (CCI).

In bright hues of red, blue, orange and pink that are quite a rage in the fashion circuit today, the saris spell a design language that is traditional in concept and contemporary in expression.

Revivalists Abha Dalmia, Vidhi Singhania and Manju Jalota and mastercraftswoman Takdira Begum have recreated the forgotten weaves and embellishments such as zardosi, chikankari and kantha on saris, lehengas and dupattas.

Abha Dalmia along with the weavers from Benaras has resurrected Badla (a fabric with beaten silver) and Katan (a mix of silk and georgette) types of weaving typical to the region. What makes these creations unique are the antique borders and motifs.

Says Abha, "I prefer to restrict the intricate detailing to the borders and leave the body uncluttered. The colours are generally soft. But sometimes I even go for the season's favourite hue."

Abha's Benaras kali ghagra, which she painstakingly brought into the fashion scene, carries subtle touches of Thai, Japanese and Turkish motifs.

Vidhi Singhania has given the sheer and lightweight Kota saris a new look. She brought back the original muslin and cotton Kota. Vidhi also introduced new colour palettes, designs and subtle zari motifs. Her Kota collection includes vegetable dyed leheriya on tissue, block prints and zariwork. And have you heard of crushed Kota skirts? Vidhi has them in the collection.

Manju Jalota fuses chikankari, zardosi and ari embroidery to create an impressive range of saris, dupattas and fabric in jute, silk and organza. Some of them have lace, crochet and fine trimmings.

Takdira Begum gives shape to the `designer' dreams of these three revivalists. Takdira specialises in Kantha embroidery. Her craftsmanship lends a heritage value to each piece.

The CCI sari exhibition is on at the Chola Sheraton till March 5.

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