The locals have stopped their grumbling as the tourists have rolled the turnstiles along. But is it all about the tourists? Is it possible that wine-savvy Northern Californians might want to climb aboard in this year of the stay-at-home vacation?

The answer from this Northern California passenger is an unqualified yes - and if you go, I'm betting the next time you send your visitors for a ride, you'll want to join them. I took the train twice to research this story - and then took my vacationing parents aboard for a Vintners Lunch with Vino D'Angelo. Our leisurely afternoon, which included a chat with the winemaker, was the highlight of their weeklong visit.

Getting there

It's an easy jaunt to downtown Napa and signs point the way to the train, at 1275 McKinstry St., just off Soscol Avenue. Lot parking is free and plentiful, and if you're early, there are some charming vendors in the station, including a wine shop well stocked with famous and lesser-known labels selected by Ryan Graham, the train's wine director.

The hardest part of the whole experience is selecting your itinerary when you make your reservations.

It's not as simple as selecting a departure time - those rarely vary, boarding at 11 a.m. for the daily lunches and 6 p.m. for the dinners. Within every ride, there are various itineraries, priced accordingly - ranging from the sumptuous winemaker dinner that might be going on in the Vista Dome ($154 per person with five courses and four full glasses of wine) down to the a la carte lunchtime or dinnertime seat in the un-air-conditioned Silverado Car ($49.50 just for the ride).

You don't have to eat to ride the train. You don't have to drink. I do recommend both highly.

Fine day aboard Wine Train

10:30 a.m.: Check in and find a couch for the entertaining orientation and tasting given by whomever will be manning, or womaning, the tasting bar on board. If you've heard it before, check out the cool gifts for vinophiles in the wine shop.

11 a.m.: Listen for your boarding call. Get your picture taken - there's no obligation, and you can see the framed result when you return to the station. Settle in at your reserved table, preferably in the Vista Dome - twosomes may be seated with other couples, and it's worth noting when you make your reservation whether you would enjoy this or would rather not - and get ready to enjoy the vineyards roll by at a comfortable 18 mph.

11:30 a.m.: As the journey begins, enjoy your glass of bubbly in the Vista Dome along with some not-so-scenic views of Napa, and then suddenly the hills come alive. Now is a good time to ask your server when you should get up and walk about the train. One can view the kitchen and find out how on earth they roll out food of such quality for so many in such a short period of time (and small space). And pours at the tasting bar come at a hefty four for $10, thankfully from a wine educator conversant in the 50 or so choices that may be on the shelves on a given ride.

It's also fun to go all the way up front and check out the locomotive running the whole show.

Noon: The food and its presentation will impress you, first because who expects decent food on a train, and second because there has been a concerted effort to match the cuisine to both the wine options and the train prices. You'll have choices to make for every course (four if you're riding in the Vista Dome, three if you're doing the gourmet service), including options suitable for vegetarians, and either follow the suggested wine pairings or make your own. My favorites were a California Dungeness Crab 3 Ways paired with Whetstone Viognier on a winemaker dinner with Jamey Whetstone, and the Rock Shrimp Sweet Pea Fritter with Curry and Ginger served with Vino D'Angelo Sauvignon Blanc on lunch with the folks.

1 p.m.: If you're not in the Vista Dome, you will be changing seats for dessert or for your entree, depending on whether you booked the early lunch or later lunch. If you booked the Ambassador Winery Tour, you are going to change cars for dessert. A nice touch: Most guests are seated on the opposite side of the train from where they were previously, so the views are fresh.

2 p.m.: If you've booked a winery option, you're going to hop off the train at a winery for a special private tour and tasting in a small group. On some of these programs, you'll visit two wineries. This can make for a long day but a great option for those who want a deeper Napa Valley wine experience.

2:15 p.m.: You're going to get a bill for your wine and any beverages you ordered other than coffee and tea. Here's one of the things I didn't like about the train: The service is fabulous, but the price of the ticket doesn't include a tip. And apparently the 12 percent service charge added to the beverage bill isn't considered a tip. Rule of thumb I have invented: Subtract $50 from the price of your ticket (the cost of the basic ride) and tip your server based on the remainder plus whatever you spent on beverages.

2:30 p.m.: Suddenly the train is returning to the station. Here's your chance to shop for some of the wines you've tasted.

4:30 p.m.: If you took the Ambassador Winery Tour, you're stumbling off the bus about now - hopefully to a comfy bed just across the street. You can always shop for your wines tomorrow.

Heading home

The staff clearly is well schooled in making sure the patrons aren't rolling off the train into the driver's seat of a car. But anyone attending one of the winemaker events ought to have a designated driver or, even better, a room at a neighboring hotel. I tried both the River Terrace Inn and the luxurious Westin Verasa next door and recommend either, depending on your budget. They are both across the street from the station in Napa.

Check out the shops and restaurants in and around the Oxbow Market just a few blocks away before chugging back to reality.

E-mail comments to travel@sfchronicle.com.

This article appeared on page M - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle