With Hawaii's nearest alternatives for food sources several thousand miles away, the "farm to table" concept would seem to be a natural for local restaurants. Indeed, the top chefs of the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement — including Alan Wong, George Mavrothalassitis, Roy Yamaguchi, James McDonald, Bev Gannon and Peter Merriman, among others — helped support a growing cadre of small farmers in the early '90s while redefining fine dining in the islands. Yet it's only recently that the scale of boutique agriculture has become big enough, and the palates of visitors adventurous enough, to see the trend really take off. Here are some highlights of the latest crop of farm-friendly tables in Hawaii:

OAHU

Waikiki: Gourmets who haven't been here for several years — or ever — would be surprised by how sophisticated their dining options have become, even at mass-market hotels like the Sheraton Waikiki. After reinventing cocktail hour with inspired tropical tapas at Rumfire and creating intriguing tasting menus at Twist at Hanohano, the beachfront hotel recently opened Kai Market, an upscale breakfast and dinner buffet restaurant focused on local ingredients — including three "living walls" of herbs and spices.

Kai Market's "Plantation Nights" menu by executive chef Darren Demaya features the diverse ethnic cuisine of Hawaii's former sugar and pineapple plantation workers, using almost exclusively island-grown products and, in some cases, family recipes entered in a monthly contest. And speaking of family, one child (12 and younger) eats free with each paying adult ($49 for dinner, $26 for breakfast.) It's a splurge, but dueling ukuleles and a handsome interior of tropical hardwoods augment a special night out.

This summer Hilton Hawaiian Village opened its first new beachfront restaurant in years, Tropics Bar & Grill. The $11 million renovation of Charo's old stomping grounds (then known as the Tropics Showroom) now showcases executive chef Jeffrey Vigilla's Hawaii-grown cuisine for all three meals, in collaboration with Mark Ellman of Maui's famed Mala Ocean Tavern. Breakfast features Maui onion gravy on the loco moco (rice, fried eggs and hamburger are the other main ingredients) and Hamakua mushrooms in the baked egg white casserole (each $17), while lunch and dinner bring dishes such as seared ahi on Waimanalo greens ($18) and Big Island mushrooms and goat cheese on flatbread ($14). Top musicians such as Sean Na'auao serenade diners in the evenings.

The luxurious Halekulani has also launched a new regional and seasonal dining "experience," called Table One. The restaurant-within-a-restaurant, in the atrium of Orchids restaurant, offers a five-course ($95) or seven-course ($125) tasting menu by executive chef Vikram Garg for just one table of four to six guests each night (closed Sundays.) Garg, who frequents island markets daily, will design the menu in consultation with the diners, who need to make reservations 48 hours in advance. A lunch option is also available; call (808) 923-2311 for reservations.

Windward Side: Fortunately, you don't have to be well-heeled to enjoy Oahu's garden bounty. The new barbecue joint Sweet Home Waimanalo uses produce from the eponymous town whenever possible, including salad greens, cucumbers and farm-fresh eggs. Kalua pork ($8.25), honey-citrus chicken breast ($8.95), tri-tip steak ($10.25) and smoked fish tacos ($7.95) are also on the menu; all sauces are homemade. It's two doors down, and a culinary world away, from McDonald's in Waimanalo.

Ka'anapali: For years, chef James McDonald has worked both ends of the farm-to-table spectrum, running celebrated restaurants Pacific'o and I'o in Lahaina, and the organic O'o Farm (open for tours) in upcountry Kula. Oh, and he supplies the food for the elegant Feast at Lele luau, too. Still, he managed to find time a few months ago to open a Maui-oriented market in the new Honua Kai Resort & Spa.

The 'Āina Gourmet Market (from the Hawaiian word for "land") is actually a combination coffee shop (featuring Valley Isle beans grown nearby), deli/cafe, greengrocer and wine store. The deli's ever-changing ready-to-eat specials include Tuesday Tacos— fresh fish tacos with tomato and tomatillo salsa ($4) — and most food items, such as eggs and organic produce, come from within a 100-mile radius. Although not quite as farm-focused, the newest outpost of Duke's is also sure to include local farm fare when it opens at Honua Kai in late December.

Lahaina: Almost two decades ago chef David Paul Johnson revolutionized Maui dining with David Paul's Lahaina Grill, before losing it due to a partner's financial difficulties and eventually leaving the island.The new David Paul's Island Grill not only incorporates island specialties such as Kapalua cherry tomatoes, Kula beets and Maui Gold pineapple, but also stresses organic and sustainable ingredients, such as natural chicken and Hawaiian sea salt. The menu, which changes frequently, offers half portions and a nine-item tasting menu (for a surprisingly low $40 to $45). Tastings might sample his Brussels sprout Caesar, Kurabota pork roast or sauteed opakapaka with Maui onion polenta and jus.

Wailea: Maui-reared chef Jake Belmonte has revitalized the Fairmont Kea Lani's dinner options with a plantation-themed, outdoor restaurant called Kō, meaning "sugarcane." It can also mean "to succeed," and that he does, working with local providers to source dishes such as an appetizer of seared ahi "on the rock," served with a hot rock ($24), and signature entrees such as paniolo-style grilled rib-eye steak from the Maui Cattle Company ($49), lobster tempura with an addictive trio of sauces ($41) and coconut curry lamb chops with grilled mango-mint salsa ($39). It's pricey, but in keeping with the resort surroundings, and portions are plantation-authentic.

Kona side: The top-rated Four Seasons Hualalai has just completed a $40 million "enhancement," including a complete renovation of the oceanfront Beach Tree restaurant. Chef Nick Mastracusa revamped the menu to include many choices from close by: Keahole lobster ravioli ($36) is at the higher end of dinner prices, while a Hamakua and crimini mushroom pizza ($22) is at the lower end. Look for Waimea strawberries in the Tom's Pink Shirt cocktail.

Kailua-Kona's popular waterfront restaurant Huggo's ushered in a new Hawaii regional cuisine menu in July, with more small plates ($8 to $18) as well. Executive chef Konrad Arroyo, formerly of the Hotel Hana-Maui, has his pick of the restaurant's one-acre organic garden, as well as the harvest of the Big Island's many small growers. Vegetarian alert: Large plates include island-crafted crispy tofu with wilted Asian greens, local forest mushrooms and forbidden black rice ($22).

Hilo side: The luxurious solar-powered bed-and-breakfast Waianuhea in Ahualoa is now serving dinner, with 48 hours' advance notice. Like the gourmet breakfasts and evening appetizers, dinners feature local and seasonal ingredients, organic where possible, in three-course ($48) and four-course ($58) options. Sample entree: mahi with Waimea green beans in a ponzu Kona dijon sauce, served over caramelized Maui onion mashed Yukon gold potatoes and coconut milk sweet potatoes.

Po'ipu: The oceanfront Shells Restaurant at the Kauai Sheraton is featuring a weekly farmers market special ($32) every Thursday night, with Garden Isle items such as natural grass-fed Angus beef from A'akukui Ranch, vegetables from Layoen Farms and sweet corn from Kekaha providing inspiration for executive chef Ben Takahashi. But you'll find plenty of Kauai-derived dishes on the regular menu, including a warm goat cheese salad ($12) with lettuce from the South Shore and cheese and cherry tomatoes from the North Shore.

Princeville: While not open yet, celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Kaua'i Grill is already causing a stir among island gourmets as his first outpost in the islands. The restaurant is due to debut not longer after its home — the former Princeville Hotel — reopens as the St. Regis Princeville Resort in early October. Given the chef's predilection for Asian flavors and the freshest ingredients, it's hard to imagine his menu won't take advantage of the neighboring cornucopia.

Jeanne Cooper is the former Chronicle Travel Editor and author of SFGate's Hawaii Insider (www.sfgate.com/blogs/hawaiiinsider), a daily blog about Hawaii travel and island culture.