That's because Grange is housed within Cornerstone Sonoma, a 9-acre collection of high-end "concept gardens" strewn with inventive sculptures and art displays nestled among boutique shops, a cafe and two other wine tasting rooms.

Occupying a modern tin building with a roll-up door and chandeliers that resemble stacked marshmallows, the spare, industrial-chic Grange feels a bit like an art studio. Its collection, though, is drinkable, emphasizing small-lot Sonoma wines, many of which can't be tasted or purchased elsewhere, from seven boutique wineries: Arnot-Roberts, Derbès, Dutch Bill Creek, Eno, Harrington, Heintz and Mantra.

The vibe: On a warm summer day, a gaggle of young women, recent college graduates from Los Angeles, lounged at the long, glass-topped wood bar, lifting glasses in wry toasts "to unemployment." As reggae-funk music played in the background, one of their crew sprawled on a cozy leather couch, her feet resting on a table holding a basket of heritage chicken eggs.

There's an artistic bent to the souvenirs, too - no T-shirts, but minimalist displays of brick-shaped "plates" made out of sea salt, bags of FunkyChunky popcorn, environmentally conscious glass coasters and candles.

The team: Grange was founded by Sonoma-Napa natives John Green and Heather Kirlin. Green, with a 15-year career in wine sales, acts as general manager and host. Kirlin, a lawyer in San Francisco, was raised on her parents' Napa winery and periodically hosts at the bar.

The wines: Tastings, which typically feature five to seven wines from co-op participants, cost $10, which is refunded with purchase. On our visit, Green was pouring five wines, but added in a special Mantra Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, released a week earlier.

The other wines included a Mantra Sauvignon Blanc, a Harrington Rosé, a Heintz Pinot Noir, a Mantra Syrah and a Mantra Zinfandel from a vineyard established in 1890. Additional wines sold here may be tasted as available. If your favorite isn't on the tasting list, just ask.

The experience: Green, often behind the bar, is a treasure trove of knowledge and chat skills. Not just about the wines, but all of Sonoma County(Cloverdale is tiny, he told a group of visitors. "Rule of thumb - anything called 'dale' here is tiny," he said, going on to explain the history of the old mill town).

The extras: It's set in an enclave of unusual shops carrying items you never knew you needed until you see them. If you've been scouring near and far for a Bigfoot gun target or a hippo skull from Africa (just $3,950), they're right next door. Rumbling stomachs can be quelled at Sage Fine Food & Provisions a few steps away, serving up artisan sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets made from local, organic and sustainable ingredients.

This would be an excellent place for a party, too, as Grange also hosts private tastings for up to 20 people by appointment.

Rating: Rating: THREE STARS

If you go: Grange Sonoma, 23564 Arnold Drive (near Hwy. 121), Sonoma, (707) 933-8980 or grangesonoma.com. Open 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily except Tuesday.

Nearby: Cornerstone Sonoma also contains tasting rooms for Roshambo Winery ((707) 431-2051 or roshambowinery.com), and the Tasting Room of Carneros Family Wineries including Larson ((707) 934-4090 or larsonfamilywinery.com), Ridgeline ((707) 934-4087 or ridgelinevineyards.com) and Artesa (artesawinery.com).

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This article appeared on page M - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle