Fresh food just out the door in Wine Country

Sunday, August 16, 2009


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In the Wine Country, where one sips a libation produced in the fields just outside the tasting room, it makes sense to eat food produced in gardens just outside the restaurant. OK, so we don't want to eat beef where the cows are slaughtered. This is a more serene dining experience. Think harp music, a few tomatoes from the plants growing across the way, some rosemary and thyme from the herb garden down the path.

Here are a few destinations - sprinkled about in Northern California's various wine countries - where the chef uses the freshest ingredients possible as diners sit among them.

1. Meadowood, St. Helena

Chef Christopher Kostow may serve up a radish from the lovely grounds - or even honey from the hives - of this resort restaurant, overlooking a quaint nine-hole golf course. The luxurious resort is secluded enough that it feels private, but anyone with the bucks can dine on the garden-inspired cuisine, presented in four-course ($95) or eight-course tasting menus ($155). Bargain hunters, try the two-course menu offered in the bar. Open nightly for dinner, except Sunday. 900 Meadowood Lane (just off the Silverado Trail), St. Helena. (707) 967-1205, www.meadowood.com.

2. Madrona Manor, Healdsburg

The restaurant at this romantic bed and breakfast in the Sonoma Valley relies on the work of its own master gardener, Geno Ceccato, who cultivates the ingredients for meals on 8 acres of gardens around the manor. Results appear on a three-, four- or five-course meal ($64-$82), served within a short trek to posh overnight accommodations. Dinner Wednesday through Sunday. 1001 Westside Rd., Healdsburg. (800) 258-4003, www.madronamanor.com.

3. Restaurant at Wente Vineyards, Livermore

Concertgoers at the Wente summer series can play "what's that herb," because there's more in the air than the usual fare. Sit on the patio to catch a glimpse of Wente's organic herb and vegetable gardens, but don't forget to gaze at the gastronomic eye candy on the plates sent out by Chef Arthur Wall. Pricey - but for a bargain, catch the Sunday Sunset Supper for a two-course dinner at $29 or a three-course dinner at $37. Daily lunch and dinner; Sunday brunch. 5050 Arroyo Rd., Livermore. (925) 456-2450, www.wentevineyards.com.

4. Applewood Inn, Guerneville

Not far from the Russian River, these 2 acres of organic gardens generate fodder for the feasts created by Chef Bruce Frieseke on his five-course tasting menu ($60). The inn's history as a working apple ranch provides fertile ground for its production of fruit from more than 100 heirloom trees around the grounds. Breakfast chef Alfredo Garcia gets in on the pickings too, but only for the overnight guests. Dinner, open to all, Tuesday through Saturday. 13555 Highway 116, Guerneville. (707) 869-9093, www.applewoodinn.com.

5. Rutherford Grill, Rutherford

If the lines are long enough outside this popular Napa Valley stop on the day you visit, maybe you'll see some of your food picked while you're waiting. Even with the departure of executive chef Sheamus Feeley, the goal remains to keep things simple to match the casual ambience - but that doesn't mean the produce comes from Costco. There's a garden right next to the patio where the staff can find their veggies. Lunch and dinner every day, with sandwiches starting at $14, entrees to $32. 1180 Rutherford Rd. (at Highway 29), Rutherford. (707) 963-1792, www.hillstone.com.

This article appeared on page M - 2 of the San Francisco Chronicle


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