Don't miss: Buying fresh tortillas at the numerous tortillarias (sold by weight).

Don't bother: Bringing food or drinks. Major cities have modern supermarkets and there are numerous roadside fruit and bakery stands.

Coolest souvenir: Frida Kahlo shopping bag from Guanajuato that I filled with beach shells from San Carlos.

Worth a splurge: Hiring a guide at the various ruins, especially Palenque, where guides traverse uncovered temples and pyramids in the rain forest.

I wish I'd packed: More children's puzzles. The village children were thrilled to get them and they were easy for a group of children to share.

Other comments: We drove nearly 6,000 miles in Mexico. Traveling with a group added an element of safety for unexpected mechanical breakdowns. We had no other problems.

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This article appeared on page M - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle