609 Hayes St. (at Laguna)
San Francisco
Tel. (415) 621-5482
In this warm, compact Hayes Valley space, chef/owner Jessica Boncutter offers a nightly changing blackboard menu of dishes that rarely miss. Soups, like the tripe or white beans with escarole, are particularly good. A Top 10 new restaurant of 2008.
Lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m. Wednesday-Saturday; dinner 6-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday.
From four-star spots to cozy neighborhood joints, these are Michael Bauer's picks for the best in Bay Area dining.