What's It Like?

Perhaps the most ethnically and economically diverse neighborhood in San Francisco, the Western Addition feels more like several neighborhoods. And, in a sense, it is -- from the stunning views at Alamo Square to the historic Fillmore to ever-changing Divisadero St., you can experience several distinct vibes in the space of a few blocks.

Who lives there? The Western Addition was the City's first multicultural neighborhood. The Fillmore, in particular, has long been considered the heart of San Francisco's first full-fledged African-American community. Before World War II it was home to many Japanese-Americans as well, but internment resulted in hundreds of sudden vacancies that were quickly filled by Jewish immigrants and then African-American GIs returning from the war.

The Jazz scene on Fillmore began to define the area, with greats like Duke Ellington and Billie Holiday frequently playing clubs in the neighborhood. Tightly-knit African-American church congregations also found places to worship on every block.

In 1948, however, San Francisco declared the Western Addition a slum and planned to tear it down in the name of urban renewal (or "urban removal," as residents called it). New housing attracted young professionals, and the African-American community was pushed south toward Market Street.

Today it remains predominantly working-class, with mix of African-American families, young people in their twenties and thirties and others attracted by the central location and moderate rents. Various groups have tried over the years to revitalize the jazz scene, but so far the grand visions have gone unfulilled.

On Japantown:Japan Center, built during the height of hippiedom in 1968, was not a destination point for the flower children, but it was a welcome addition to a neighborhood that had been through many ups and downs. At its height, in the 1920s and '30s, Japantown spread over 20 blocks. But Japanese Americans were forced out of their neighborhood twice -- once during the internment years during World War II, and again in the late '50s, this time in the name of urban renewal. Japanese Americans never came back in big numbers to live here, but they do come on the weekends to shop.

Sights & Culture

Alamo Square

Alamo Square Park: One of the most photographed spots in San Francisco, thanks to the breathtaking views of the City and the row of six beautifully restored Victorians nicknamed the Painted Ladies. The west side of the park allows dogs off-leash. Between Fulton, Hayes, Steiner and Scott streets.

Don't miss the mysterious "shoe garden" on one side of the gardeners' shed in the middle of the park. It was created by the park's gardener, who kept finding shoes among the park trash and hated to throw them out. He arranged them on top of logs and placed the logs around a flower bed, then planted the shoes with flowers. Now people drop off pairs of shoes with hopes of finding them sprouting later. (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate)

Fillmore

From Feb. 8 until June 10, 2006, an exhibition called "Harlem of the West: The San Francisco Fillmore Jazz Era" at the San Francisco Performing Arts Library and Museum on Van Ness will feature photos of great jazz players, taken by great black photographers of the Fillmore District. (More info)

Fillmore Farmers' Market: Features fresh produce, breads and flowers, plus local merchants, community nonprofits and demonstrations by local chefs. A collaboration between Mo' Better Food Market and Pacific Coast Farmers Market. Opening in May 2005 at the Fillmore Center Plaza -- see Web site for details and updates. Runs through November.

Fillmore Fridays Outdoor Music and Cinema Series: Usually August-October, Friday evening outdoor shows alternate between free, family-friendly movies and jazz and blues concerts. See Web site for more info.

Fillmore Street Jazz Festival: A free jazz festival on Fillmore Street in July, featuring three stages of continuous live music, outdoor street cafes and more than 200 arts and crafts booths. Fillmore between Eddy and Jackson streets. Information: (800) 731-0003.
Chronicle article: Spirit of jazz lives again in annual Fillmore festival

Juneteenth Festival: Commemorating the reading of the Emancipation Proclamation by Abraham Lincoln on June 19, 1863, the Juneteenth Festival has become a celebration of freedom from slavery for all people as well as a celebration of African-American heritage. Live music, food, an Inner Beauty Pageant, Rodeo and more. Kimball Park, at Geary and Steiner streets. Information: (415) 447-1330

Kimball Playground: This small neighborhood park hosts the African-American Juneteenth festival every year. Steiner Street at O'Farrell Street.

Japantown

Cherry Blossom Festival: A celebration of spring and the first blossoms of cherry trees in April. Events include a parade, martial arts exhibitions, music, crafts and food booths. Celebration is centered around Japantown Center, but various events also take place at the Radisson Miyako Hotel and the AMC Kabuki Theatre. Information: (415) 563-2313.

Nihonmachi Street Fair This August fair features dancing, music, food and other cultural aspects of Japan. Asian and Pacific Islander community non-profit organizations participate in raising both funds and awareness. In Japantown and the Japantown Center, San Francisco. Information: (415) 771-9861 or www.nihonmachistreetfair.org.

Restaurants

Alamo Square Seafood Grill: Create your own meals with a mix-and-match menu of fresh seafood -- select a fish, a cooking method and a sauce. Candle-lit ambience, plus generous servings at reasonable prices. 803 Fillmore St., (415) 440-2828. (Chronicle Review)

Bean Bag Coffeehouse: A comfy café pleasantly brightened by morning sunlight. Daytime, order smoothies, crepes and omelettes; the nighttime menu centers around simple pasta dishes. 601 Divisadero St., (415) 563-3634.

BlueJay Cafe: This funky little soul food spot serves good comfort classics in a lofty blue space with local art on the walls. Go the full Southern route and start with sweet tea at the long U-shaped counter before moving on to thick slices of meatloaf, pork chops with apple chutney and shatteringly crisp fried chicken. Popular weekend brunch includes big pancakes, fried catfish and Baltimore sandwiches. (-SF Chronicle) 919 Divisadero St. (between Golden Gate and McAllister), (415) 447-6066. (Chronicle Review/Bargain Bites 2004)

Brother-in-Laws Bar-B-Que: "On one of those Indian Summer afternoons, if the breeze is just right, you can catch whiff of the grilling short-end ribs from as far as three blocks away," observes Lord Martine. Baskets of BBQ ribs and chicken churned out in the no-frills space come with a side of potato salad, cole slaw, baked beans or spaghetti and two slices of white or wheat bread (Martine suggests tossing these and getting the mini corn bread loaf instead). There are a couple of tables but don't plan to eat there - these are usually crowded with people awaiting take-out orders. 705 Divisadero St., (415) 931-7427.

Bus Stop Pizza: Get the slice well-done, especially if you get the Haight or Divisadero slice, so laden with toppings you have to eat it over a plate. 1256 Divisadero, (415) 626-5559.

Cafe Abir: Those looking for a potent cup of coffee line up at this comfortable Arabic coffeehouse for Abir's special blend, roasted on the premises. Everything you need for hours at a cafe is here -- bagels, coffeecake, sandwiches, salads, pasta, beer and wine, international magazines and newspapers for sale, an assortment of books and lots of tables inside and out. The sidewalk seating is dog- and smoker-friendly, but you can't bring the alcoholic bevs outside. 1300 Fulton St., (415) 567-7654.

Central Coffee: Not only does Central Coffee feature groovy eclectic music from the staff's own mix tapes -- unike the bigger coffee shops that pipe in demographically calculated playlists via digital cable -- but the menu is quite high-quality. You can get some good, honest bagels (boiled, not steamed, please!), fresh vegetables and pastries, diverse coffees and teas ... the only disadvantage is that the place shuts down by 2pm on weekdays and is closed on Sundays. Pick up a snack and take a brief amble one block up Lyon Street to the idyllic green oasis of the Panhandle, or sit in a sunny window with a book and notepad. 1696 Hayes St. (415) 922-2008.

Eddie's Cafe: The ultimate morning-after diner. On weekend mornings and early afternoons there's almost always a wait, but it's hard to complain when everyone who works there is so nice and understanding of your hangover, and you know you'll eventually be rewarded with hot coffee in a mystery mug (no two alike!), a no-fuss breakfast (eggs, pancakes, bacon, etc.), jukebox tunes and fellow diners who won't even notice you're in pajamas. Breakfast is served all day. 800 Divisadero St., (415) 563-9780. (Chronicle article)

Fruitful Grounds: A fine little coffee shop on the corner of Fulton & Masonic, with the usual caffeinated choices supplemented by a truly excellent menu that ranges from hearty sandwiches and burritos to bagels and smoothies (available with protein powder, ginseng, and an array of other health-food-store supplements). 1813 Fulton St., (415) 221-1876.

Green Earth/Health Haven: Divisadero's two organic food stores stock organic fruits and vegetables, cereals, drinks, frozen foods, cheeses, breads and body care products. Not especially cheap, and the produce quality is hit and miss, but both are undeniably welcome alternatives to the typical corner stores. Green Earth: 860 Divisadero (at McAllister), (415) 922-6418. Health Haven: 621 Divisadero (near Hayes), (415) 351-1267.

Herbivore: Just because it's vegan doesn't mean you're condemned to a thin gruel of wheatgrass and oats served by a gaunt macrobiotic devotee in a potato-sack dress. Herbivore revels in rich flavors and hearty fare served in a modern, warm-industrial space. A few tables outside let you absorb the local flavor as passersby walk down bustling Divisadero, but it's the patio out back that's a real find. Flowers and apartment buildings hug the sides of the two-tiered space, giving it the feel of your own backyard. Another location is in the Mission District at 983 Valencia St., near 21st Street). (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 531 Divisadero, (415) 885-7133. (Chronicle review)

Jay's Cheesesteak #2: Some folks would find the idea of a Philadelphia cheesesteak made with anything other than Cheez Wiz to be profoundly wrong. But the guy behind the counter at Jay's will note that we are not in Philadelphia. Get your sandwiches with cheddar, provolone, swiss ... but no Cheez Wiz. Toppings include grilled onions, lettuce and tomato -- and of course all the steak sandwiches are made with Neiman ranch beef, also to the dismay of some Philadelphians. 553 Divisadero.

Little Star Pizza: Chicagoans will feel one step closer to home at this a pizza restaurant and bar. Inside, lights cast a red glow on royal blue walls and a rust-colored cement floor, and a jukebox in the corner plays classics. In true Chicago style, the pizza is sauced on top, and loaded with a variety of toppings like sausage, mushrooms, green peppers and onions. Deep dish detractors don't fret -- a selection of thin-crust pizzas are available as well. Housemade cheesecake and gelato round out the short menu. Alcohol: beer and wine. (-SF Chronicle) 846 Divisadero St. (at McAllister Street), (415) 441-1118.

Metro Cafe: Run by genuine French people, the Metro is a neighborhood gourmet gem -- not cheap, but not irredeemably pricey, considering the imaginative and well-prepared dishes. Up front it's all comfy and modern -- out in the backyard you can have one of the best brunches of the city, surrounded by trees and blossoms. Be warned, you may wind up spending more on mimosas than your omelette. No lunch service. 311 Divisadero, (415) 552-0903. (Chronicle review)

One World Cafe: Strong coffee, warm yellow-glazed walls and window seats -- it's as simple as that here, unpretentious and relaxing. 1799 McAllister St., (415) 776-9358.

Panhandle Pizza: One of the better gourmet pizza pies in town, with corn meal and olive oil crusts and truly tasty special pies like the Greek (marinated eggplant, kalamata olives, red onions, spinach, walnuts, tomato sauce, feta cheese) and Creole (andouille sausage, corn, red onions roasted red peppers, marinara, goat cheese). Disadvantage -- you pay for the quality, and the pies only come in medium and large. Order delivery, or stop in for primo slices. 2077 Hayes St., (415) 750-0400.

Papalote: The quick-service eatery, a branch of the Mission District fave, boasts a saucy chicken mole burrito and tender carnitas. Vegetarians can opt for grilled vegetable or tofu tacos. The small spot works best for takeout, but if you nab a table, check out the signature hanging purple butterfly while sipping a cup of fruity agua fresca. (-SF Chronicle) 1777 Fulton St. (near Masonic), (415) 776-0106.

Poleng Lounge: Asian street food and small plates from Chef Tim Luym of Charles Nob Hill and Fifth Floor. The vibe is Zen meets coffeehouse, with dark wood tables, a fireplace and water installation, batik wraps and a flat-screen TV that displays nature shows and the afternoon tea lounge menu. Elixirs use tea, juices, sake and shochu. (-SF Chronicle) 1751 Fulton St. (at Masonic), (415) 441-1710.

Powell's Place: When Powell's Place closed in April 2004 after more than 30 years in Hayes Valley, devotees of the restaurant's fried chicken, collard greens and a jukebox full of Stevie Wonder tunes feared the worst. But in this new location, the owners were able to double the seating to 150 and install a carryout counter in the front. The menu, a solid soul food selection with a couple of Cajun offerings, is as humble as always, and has remained pretty much the same. Service is casual but friendly. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 1521 Eddy St. (near Fillmore), (415) 409-1388. (Chronicle review)

Sacred Grounds: A low, comfortable local coffee shop on Hayes St. with a spoken-word/performance tradition that dates makes to the '80s. Dark wood interiors and couches augment the traditional array of tables and chairs, and the menu offers plenty of fine light-brunch options, including soups and bagels. 2095 Hayes, (415) 387-3859.

Stelladoro Pizza (open late): Chicken parmesan sandwiches, generous salads, soups-of-the-day and late-night hours make this an essential take-out/delivery joint. Though not exactly gourmet, the staff is fast and efficient and the food, though low-budget, is flavorful and hits the spot. 808 Divisadero, (415) 928-4454.

Waziema: A spacious place with a groovy jukebox oriented towards soul and classic R&B;, Waziema is a dark-wood-interior kind of bar with a back area sporting a pool table and occasional live music. Their affordable, heaping platters of tasty Ethiopian food can now be enjoyed with hard alcohol in addition to beer and wine, but the place still only stays open 'til midnight. 543 Divisadero, (415) 346-6641.

Japantown:

Hana Hou Kitchen/Isuzu Japanese Seafood and Sushi Restaurant: "An aloha den in Japantown ... Hana Hou shares rent with Isuzu, a Japanese seafood and sushi place. So be sure to ask for the right menu, or both." (read more) 1581 Webster St. (between Geary and Post) in the Japan Center Kinokuniya Building, (415) 922-2290.

Iroha: Located in a second-story perch, Iroha is hard to find unless you're really looking for it, but the small, crowded establishment has been in business for more than 20 years. The menu features an assortment of hot and cold noodles, skewered grilled items and one-bowl dishes. Service is very low-key, but dishes are served quickly and without fuss, and teacups are refilled frequently. (-SF Chronicle) 1728 Buchanan St. (between Post and Sutter), (415) 922-0321. (Chronicle review)

Juban: If you want something interactive after sitting in a movie theater for hours, try Juban for grill-it-yourself Japanese fare. The restaurant has a stylishly warm atmosphere with honey-colored wood-and-copper lights hanging over the well-spaced tables and booths with gas grills in the center. The restaurant specializes in yakiniku, or Japanese barbecue. Order from the list of raw items that includes short ribs, beef tongue, chicken and lobster tails, then grill them to your desired doneness. Wagyu, or Kobe beef, is the specialty here, and worth the high price for its exquisite flavor and texture. Expect to run up a hefty bill; you'll need to order a couple of grill items for each person plus accompaniments such as rice, kimchi, vegetables and lettuce wrappers to make a meal. (-SF Chronicle) 1581 Webster St. (near Post in Japan Center), (415) 776-5822. (Chronicle review)

Kappa: Hidden away above a Denny's restaurant, this tiny gem specializes in koryori-ya -- Tokyo-style small plates that emphasize freshness and intensity. 1700 Post St., Suite K (near Webster St.), (415) 673-6004. (Chronicle review)

Korea House: Another Asian barbecue option is nearby Korea House. It's not as pretty to look at as Juban, but the food is wonderful. As soon as you order, servers bring several tiny dishes of assorted kimchi, from spicy cabbage to pickled sprouts to cold spicy fried potatoes, that promise to add pungent notes to the meal. Choose items for the grill -- bul ko ki or slightly spicy marinated beef is a specialty -- then try them with the various accompaniments. (-SF Chronicle) 1640 Post St. (near Laguna), (415) 563-1388. (Chronicle review)

Maki: Tiny Maki on the second floor of the Japan Center is easy to miss. But the 3-year-old restaurant serves interesting Japanese fare that you're not likely to find elsewhere in the city. Wappa meshi -- rice steamed with fish, vegetables or chicken in a lovely bamboo basket -- is just such a dish. Elegant in its simplicity, it's a full meal in itself but comes with miso soup, kobachi and Japanese pickles. Other winners on the menu are donburi -- rice topped with chicken, tempura, rib-eye or eel -- as well as teriyaki and sukiyaki. The restaurant also offers a small selection of sushi. Celadon-colored walls accented with light wood create a peaceful atmosphere, despite cramped seating at the small tables and at the bar. (-SF Chronicle) 1825 Post St. (near Webster in Japan Center), (415) 921-5215. (Chronicle review)

Mifune: You'll be hard pressed to find Japanese noodles in San Francisco that are better than those served at Mifune. The 82-seat restaurant is decked out in shocking red with black trim, and service can be brusque, but the noodles are so good you're likely to forget all else. Just decide whether you want udon (thick white noodles) or soba (thin buckwheat noodles), then pick your combination. Our favorites include wakame (seaweed) in a rich but delicate broth and niku (shredded beef) with soba. Mifune is also one of the best bargains around. The most expensive item is $9.50. (-SF Chronicle) 1737 Post St. (near Webster in Japan Center), (415) 922-0337. (Chronicle review)

Takara: Located in the Miyako Mall, Takara looks like dozens of other restaurants that fill Japantown. The crab and prawn tank at the door and a glimpse of sushi at the counter may give you a clue that there's something different here. The food crafted by Yuki Murayama is exceptional. The restaurant specializes in rice dishes not found anywhere else, often topped with seasonal ingredients. It also does a fine job with sashimi, sushi and tempura. Most items come with an appetizer, soup, a delicious savory custard, pickles and dessert. (-SF Chronicle) 22 Peace Plaza, Suite 202 (Miyako Mall at Geary and Post streets), San Francisco; (415) 921-2000. (Chronicle review)

Shopping

A-1 Hubcaps: Looking for hub caps? You're in luck, because A-1 probably has one for whatever you drive. 528 Divisadero St., (415) 431-0525.

Adidas-Harput's/Harput's Market: Since long before sneaker-obsession hit the mainstream, soft-sole connoisseurs from all over the country have hit Adidas-Harput's for its vast collection of retro and rare Adidas. Owner Gus Harput recently bought the space next door, where you can now find a large selection of elegant, expensive active wear by Y-3, by the team of Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas, as well as other hard-to-find European labels like the French minimalist label A.P.C. and the Belgian-French indie street wear label, Bless. (-SF Chronicle/SF Gate) 1525-1527 Fillmore St., (415) 923-9300. (Web site)

Braindrops: A DJ-appliance boutique, selling records as well as record totes and trance/techno-hipster gear. The staff is good and freaky, but quite helpful to both curiosity seekers and devoted members of the subculture. 1881 Hayes St., (415) 922-7246. (Web site)

Comix Experience: The staff of Comix Experience curates the shelves to achieve a careful balance of literary high fantasy (Neil Gaiman's "Sandman" and spinoffs, Alan Moore's "Promethea," etc.), edgy neo-cyberpunk ("Transmetropolitan") and, of course, plenty of cheesecake and underground mags ("Bondage Fairies," "Hate," "Love & Rockets"). 305 Divisadero, (415) 863-9258. (Web site)

Cookin': "While some pay homage to a favorite used-book or record store, dedicated cooks worship in the store's crowded, cluttered aisles, drifting through the decades among Bundt pans and Pyrex casseroles in avocado or sky blue. Though some objects, like a pre-microwave Campbell's soup warmer with a plug-in pitcher, are for collectors, most are tools for real cooks. Owner Judith Kaminsky constantly scrambles to keep the store stocked with customers' favorite equipment, stopping at trade shows to buy samples, visiting estate sales and taking buying trips to Europe as often as she can." (read full article) 339 Divisadero, (415) 861-1854.

Everlasting Tattoo: Everlasting is a world-renowned shop, immaculately clean and beautifully designed and appointed. It's heavy metal and punk rock and everything that comes with the culture, but also has some fantastic and multitalented artists on staff. Stop by, browse their art portfolios, and check out the body decoration happening right there in the studio's open central workspace. 813 Divisadero, (415) 928-6244.

Film Yard: Not a huge selection, but what's there is of high quality. Videos are arranged under categories like "Coming of Age," "Lovers on the Run" and "Women's Issues." It has a good selection of classics and silly comedies and a small adult section, as well as an area for customer-requested titles. 803 Divisadero St., (415) 563-4811.

Freewheel Bike Shop: A tiny neighborhood shop, great for drop-in parts buys and on-the-spot fixes. The Freewheel also offers a $35 half-year membership that will get you self-service access to the shop's community bike repair facilities. 1920 Hayes St., (415) 752-9195. (Web site)

Gamescape: Not just a source for wonky strategy games ("Axis & Allies," "Starfleet Battles") and the role-playing classics like "Dungeons and Dragons" and "Call of Cthulhu", Gamescape also packs the standards -- "Monopoly," "Life" -- along with a fantastic selection of deceptively simple essentials: Go, Mah Jongg, chess, Chinese checkers, card games of every sort, and more you've never even heard of. 333 Divisadero, (415) 621-4263.

Jack's Record Cellar: Packed with tons of vintage jazz and rock-and-roll albums, including a special section labeled "Sleazy Listening." 254 Scott St., (415) 431-3047.

Open Mind Music: An emporium for new and used records and CDs featuring classic rock, punk, soul, jazz, reggae and electronica. You'll find lots of stuff here by local musicians, and Open Mind also sells vintage clothing. 342 Divisadero St., (415) 621-2244.

The Other Shop #2: Not all antique shops are created equal. The Other Shop #2 specializes in mid-20th century artifacts curated for your sense of retro style. And, not only can you find furniture and housewares, but marvelous items that can only be defined as "period kitsch." Most useful of all, perhaps, for this creative-minded town, is the fact that the Other Shop #2 also rents their goods in case you ever need props for your multiple stage and screen projects. 327 Divisadero, (415) 621-5424.

Queen of the Meadow: Formerly named Joe Pye, Queen of the Meadow stocks trendy styles by brands like Seven Jeans, Free People, easel, co-operative and Bulldog, plus lots of stuff by local designers. 351 Divisadero, (415) 355-1051.

Vavadog: Hitching a ride on the fancy dog accoutrement store trend, Vavadog sells sweaters, T-shirts, carriers and "neckwear" for the pooch that otherwise has everything. Vavadog's twist: styles are decidedly hip and urban. Sparkly rhinestones spell out "bling" on one T-shirt; another sports a glow-in-the-dark skull-and-crossbones and comes with a matching human-sized tee. Sweaters come in turtleneck styles and hoodies. They've even got ice cream. 735 Fillmore St., (415) 409-3900. (Web site)

Japantown Fashion

Most people know Japantown only for its noodle shops, the theater complex and the cherry blossom festival in April, but it is also a place for a fashion fix. It is the only place to find those hyper-stylish fashion magazines; the two- tone dupioni silk evening coats designed by Mariko Sawada at Sakura Sakura; a wide variety of vintage silk kimonos; enough cell phone paraphernalia to fill a house at Moritaya; and the very latest from Cop.copine, an uber-trendy, ultra-young label from Paris, at Orange Tree. For more on these shops, read the Chron's Fashion Forward: Once hidden, San Francisco's Japan Center now a mecca for the young and stylish.

Japantown Pastries

Benkyo-do: A wide array of manju, wagashi and daifuku. 1747 Buchanan St. (at Sutter Street), (415) 922-1244.

Kansendo Japanese Pastry Shop: A smaller selection of pastries, with a minimum purchase of four pieces. Kintetsu Building, lower level, 1825 Post St., (415) 346-5083.

May's Coffee Shop: For $1.25 apiece, get a quick okashi fix from a fish-shaped waffle called taiyaki. Cooked on a griddle before your eyes, then wrapped in wax paper, be careful not to burn your tongue on the hot filling. Kintetsu Mall, lower level, 1737 Post St. (at Buchanan Street), (415) 346-4020.

Source: Japanese Sweets and Green Tea Welcome in the Fall Season

Nightlife

Boom Boom Room: Big-name and local jazz and blues performers. 1601 Fillmore St., (415) 673-8000. (Event listing / Web site)

Fillmore Auditorium: Bill Graham began building his music empire here back in the '60s, and the rock poster-covered walls are a tribute to its impressive history. With a carpeted lounge, downstairs dance hall and upstairs mezzanine and ballroom, it's at once classy and rockin'. 1805 Geary Blvd., (415) 346-6000; 24-hour hot line, (415) 346-0600. (Event listing / Web site)
Choice Club Grub - Local music venues offer menus that go beyond fries and nachos

Fly: By locals, for locals, Fly packs in young, well-dressed crowds nearly every night for fruity sake cocktails, pitchers of sangria, beer and upscale bar food. Rich colors saturate the space -- purple walls lit by red sconces, hanging star lanterns and red and green lamps -- while the music and conversation blare. There's a pool table in the tiny back room for the contortionists among us, and a daily happy hour (3:30 pm-6:30 pm), which features beer and Fly's tasty pizza for half price. (SF Gate and SF Chronicle) 762 Divisadero, (415) 931-4359. (Chronicle review)

The Independent: You have to feel a little sentimental about the Western Addition's venerable big black box -- 628 Divisadero has been offering live music for more than 30 years, be it as the Half Note, the VIS Club, the Kennel Club or the Justice League. Now, thanks to new co-owners, a state-of-the-art sound and light system and a renovation that pushed the once-center-of-the-room bar back against the wall, the joint is juiced up once more. The seats are still few and far between, lining the two walls beside the stage. But the music sounds great from wherever you're sitting or standing and the sight lines are now unimpeded by thirsty souls vying for the bartender's attention. Reflecting the venue's multigenre roots, the calendar is filled with a mix of national and local indie rock, pop, jazz and Americana. (-Kimberly Chun) 628 Divisadero St., (415) 771-1421. (Event listing/Web site)

The Page: A neighborhood-y corner spot with hideous decor (hot-pink walls and wood paneling) but a nice unpretentious vibe. 298 Divisadero St., (415) 255-6101.

Someplace Else: A tidy little Fillmore-area microbrew and wine joint with live jazz, pool tables and old board games for entertainment. 1795 Geary Blvd., (415) 440-2180.

Updated by Josh Wilson, special to SF Gate (4/02)