It's one of the reasons owners Michael Sabina and Jennifer Youll opted to buy a space around the corner that would accommodate an ever-growing crowd. Since taking over the original restaurant in 1994, the couple has catered to a loyal throng of locals.

The move has been imminent for almost two years now, as Sabina and Youll have worked on the new space themselves. The new Saint Michael's will have a full liquor license and about 30 more seats. If all goes according to plan, it will open a block away on Homer Street sometime this fall.

In the meantime, not much is different in the current digs. Chef C.J. Hammer puts out seasonal California-style menus that change every three months, with plenty of options.

Sunny atmosphere

Indoors, the airy, sun-filled space is further brightened by oversize painted canvases set against Tuscan yellow walls. Flowers and white tablecloths dress up the space at dinner; during brunch, a layer of white butcher paper and crayons make for a kid-friendly atmosphere.

Saint Michael's has long been known for familiar yet professional service, and our brunch visit proved this reputation true - servers were quick to turn tables while remaining accommodating, chummy and efficient. Another visit at dinner, however, was a different story.

On a recent Wednesday night, I met a friend who had gotten there first. By the time I arrived, she was sitting at the bar even though the majority of tables were empty. It wasn't her choice, she admitted - since we had no reservations, the host was keeping the tables for those who had booked. Fair enough. I perched at one of the high stools next to her at the small, L-shaped bar.

Fast-forward to the end of our meal, and nearly every table was still empty. It would still have been OK - albeit frustrating - but we were largely ignored at the bar, turning the meal into a two-hour-plus event.

Still, the food was satisfying enough, with seasonal starters like a beautifully presented, ripe heirloom tomato and mozzarella salad ($9) drizzled with sweet white balsamic vinaigrette. More inventive is the tuna poke with wonton chips ($11), enhanced by a surprising and pleasant gush of diced watermelon to offset crunchy macadamia nuts.

Main courses were hit or miss. Roasted corn risotto ($16) boasts all the flavors of the season, but the kernels were chewy and frozen tasting, and the rice gummy. A better choice is the pan-seared local halibut ($25), crusted golden on top with a generous squiggle of sun-dried tomato beurre blanc.

Don't miss the profiteroles ($8) for dessert. The golden puffs are stuffed with delicious mint chocolate chip gelato and draped with bittersweet chocolate sauce.

Pancakes a standout

Many come for a solid weeknight dinner, but brunch is clearly the meal of choice, with good reason. On our visit, service was better than at dinner. As for the food, thick, fluffy buttermilk pancakes ($10) are among the best I've had anywhere, served either plain or with a choice of bananas, blueberries or, in the case of the Blue Monkey pancakes, both ($11).

The best way to sample brunch is to order the breakfast medley ($13), a plate piled with two eggs any style, two pancakes, crisp bacon and herbed potato wedges. A handful of lunch items are available as well, like a thick, juicy burger ($11) stacked with avocado, bacon and jack cheese. With a mound of crispy french fries, lunch proves to be as good a choice as breakfast.

It remains to be seen what will happen in the current space when Saint Michael's moves - Sabina and Youll plan to retain ownership and turn it into a different, casual spot. But with the successful formula the pair has developed, Palo Alto residents can expect another popular spot downtown.

Amanda Gold is a Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at agold@sfchronicle.com.

This article appeared on page F - 7 of the San Francisco Chronicle