Spring break: Have it your way

Wednesday, February 4, 2009


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With its 18-year-old drinking age, yard-long margaritas and buckets of beer, Mexico's hedonistic side trumps the country's scenic, cultural and historical virtues for spring break appeal, but an alternative spring break movement has also taken hold in recent years. Here's a look at options for students who want to party 'til they drop, mix revelry with digestible doses of history and culture, or try to make a difference.

Note: Rosarito Beach, traditionally popular for its lively clubs and proximity to California, is currently off our list because of northern Baja's escalating drug battles. Similarly, we skipped up-and-coming Puerto Peñasco, a.k.a. Rocky Point, both because this congenial town on Mexico's northern Pacific coast is essentially a driving destination and because we recommend staying away from border areas at this time.

The classics: Party-hearty breaks

The main advantage of these venerable party centers is the number and variety of packages available, which take the guesswork out of budgeting and planning — you can just bring a few hundred dollars for incidentals and concentrate on your tan line and body shots.

Cancún

Incomparable beaches, varied restaurants, glitzy hotels and nonstop nightlife have made Cancún the perennial top dog for spring break in Mexico, if not the world. All-inclusive resorts such as the 1,008-plus room Oasis Cancún, which throws in all meals and drinks for less than $150 a night for students sleeping three or four to a room, sell out by early March.

Days in Cancún can be downright calm, as late risers soak up sunshine on the beach or loll by the pool with a margarita. The madness begins anew when the sun sets and doesn't wind down until dawn. House music, dance mixes, rock, jazz, world beat, reggae, salsa or virtually any other music genre is yours for the asking at clubs ranging from the astounding Coco Bongo to local hole-in-the-wall hangouts. If your head is clear for long enough, fun in the sun can take the form of snorkeling, scuba diving, jungle cruises and ferry trips to Cozumel and Isla Mujeres.

Los Cabos

The 18-mile stretch of coast between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas (officially the "Cabo San Lucas Tourist Corridor") offers some of Mexico's finest resorts, beaches, snorkeling and diving. The formidable array of clubs and bars range from the infamous Cabo Wabo to El Squid Roe and Zoe's dance clubs to the inevitable Hard Rock/Carlos 'n Charlie's chains.

The focus at this time of year is unmistakably on spring break hijinks. But you can mix it up a little with Cabo's eco-friendly ATV tours, unspoiled hidden beaches, snorkeling, surf breaks, rock climbing, cycling, diving, horseback riding, Baja-style off-road test drives and whale watching. Zero risk of boredom during daylight hours.

The alternatives: Raucous, with some redeeming social value

Sure, you have to party, but sometimes you want to escape the frenzy for awhile and get a taste of authentic Mexico. A major difference in these places is the presence of a traditional zócalo, the central square that serves as the hub of most Mexican life.

Acapulco

The onetime queen of Mexico's Pacific coast resorts slipped off the radar for awhile but is again drawing hordes of college students in search of revelry — so many, in fact, that the city could arguably go in the "party hearty" section. For now, at least, Acapulco garners alternative status on the strength of its less reckless atmosphere and the pride it lavishes on its heritage.

Acapulco's spring break crowd is diluted by squadrons of other vacationers seeking out the city's historical and cultural attractions. Inexpensive family restaurants soothe the budget, and plenty of friendly local bars offer an antidote if you overdose on "Dancing with the Devil" at the Palladium. Among the cultural diversions that are easy to take in: The most important Spanish fort on Mexico's Pacific coast, one of Diego Rivera's last murals, the still-thrilling cliff divers at Le Quebrada or a day trip to secluded Yelapa. For a taste of local life, you can't beat a Sunday band concert in the lushly landscaped zócalo.

Puerto Vallarta and Mazatlán are two other Mexican Riviera resort cities where you can join the spring break pack at plenty of beaches, clubs, foam parties and contests, or bail for awhile to bask in traditional Mexico.

In PV, roam cobblestone streets and drink in the classic white buildings capped by red tile roofs and festooned by blooming bougainvillea, geranium and hibiscus; take in eclectic sculptures, artisan markets and live entertainment along the city's well-scrubbed malecón, or seafront promenade (but steer clear of the spendy gift shops); or jaunt south to the friendly villages along the shores of Bahía de Banderas, Mexico's largest natural bay.

In Mazatlán's beguiling Plazuela Machado, the town square where the Spanish first established their commercial and social center, renovated colonial buildings ringing the square house lively cafes and clubs, and the gorgeous 19th century theater is the nexus of Mazatlán's thriving arts scene. Nightlife here is far more refined than in the Zona Dorada, Mazatlán's spring break central, yet the party frenzy is within easy reach when you need it. Other worthwhile diversions include a bay cruise, a climb to the clifftop El Faro lighthouse at the end of the malecón or a visit to the downtown cathedral and mercado.

The anti-spring break: Doing your part to save the world

Students who want to devote spring break to making the world a better place have virtually endless options in Mexico, from seeking justice for women murdered in Ciudad Juárez to painting churches in a Coahuila mining town to working with orphans in Tijuana. Many colleges and universities have alternative spring break programs, many as members of the Campus Compact or Break Away organizations.

If your school doesn't have a program, one good place to start building your own spring break is Idealist.org, a clearinghouse for global volunteer opportunities. You might conduct marine research on Mexico's remote southern Caribbean coast, teach indigenous children in Chiapas, or conduct research and write for media outlets in Oaxaca, or work on promotional videos in Cuernavaca, among many others.

A sampling of other volunteer opportunities available in Mexico:

  • Volunteer International has openings for health outreach in Oaxaca, animal care or newspaper and radio work in Guadalajara, turtle conservation in Tecoman, Colima, and work with ceramic artists in Tlaquepaque, near Guadalajara.
  • Global Volunteers needs volunteers to teach English to college students in the colonial cities of Dolores Hidalgo and Queretaro.
  • Global Vision International is looking for certified scuba divers to identify wildlife and monitor conditions in the Mesoamerican Reef along Mexico's remote Caribbean coast, in return for training and PADI Advance Open Water certification.

Good to know

Homework: See the U.S. State Department's "Spring Break in Mexico — "Know Before You G0" for a good overview of entry requirements, Mexican law, safety, conditions in popular spring break destinations and other advice.

Deals: Booking several months ahead nets the best choice and value, but last-minute trips are still available well into March. Prices peak in March; if you can go in late February or in April, your bank account will thank you. If you just plan to shuttle from resort to nightclub and back, you probably want a package deals combining airfare, hotel and the occasional added perk. A package from a student travel agency such as STA or Student TravelServices will often be your best bet, but always compare it with the best prices you can find separately before you buy. Mexican agencies such as bestday.com or docancun.com usually have the best deals for destinations off the well-trod spring break circuit.

If you're going with a group and don't require daily maid service or poolside drinks delivered to your lounge chair, consider checking vrbo.com for vacation rentals. A house large enough for your group usually will be cheaper than a hotel, and you can save still more by cooking a few meals at your home away from home.

Safety: Headlines about drug gang firefights notwithstanding, the biggest threat to the spring breaker's well-being is too much alcohol, which efficiently erases everything you know about decent behavior and common-sense precautions necessary in Mexico and anywhere else in the world. While not all spring breakers aspire to MTV's "Girls Gone Wild" model, the vast majority of spring break problems, from minor annoyances to drownings to rapes, are attributed to drinking. Read our recent discussion of this and other safety issues.

Christine Delsol is a former Chronicle travel editor and author of "Pauline Frommer's Cancún & the Yucatán."

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