The west side of the Crissy Field project.


What's It Like?

The story of San Francisco's Marina District is the story of land and water repeatedly and dramatically altered by nature and by human development.

Eight thousand years ago, American Indians lived on the dunes and near the tidal marshlands that today are the sites of apartment buildings, luxurious homes and some of the city's trendiest shops and restaurants. When the Spanish arrived here in 1776 and established the Presidio -- on the Marina's western border -- the marshlands looked pretty much the same as they would over a century later, in 1906, when the city of San Francisco was shaken and then burned by its first devastating earthquake and the resulting fire.

It wasn't until the aftermath of the big quake that major development began in the Marina. Tons and tons of brick and rock rubble from destroyed downtown buildings were brought over and dumped into the Marina's marshlands, forming an initial (and unstable) foundation for development. A few years later, when the site was chosen as the location of the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition, San Francisco had the impetus it needed to turn what began as a haphazard dumping ground into a breathtaking exhibit of architectural beauty.

The Panama-Pacific, and its iconic surviving building the Palace of Fine Arts, introduced the city to the commercial and residential development possibilities of the recently formed prime waterfront real estate. In the decades following the exposition, apartment buildings, homes and businesses sprouted up rapidly and in great numbers until the Marina had become one of San Francisco's most desirable places to live, work and visit. Until 1989, that is, when another earthquake rocked the city and sparked 27 fires citywide, including the devastating Marina blaze, and many of the area's poorly supported buildings collapsed atop the unstable ground. The Loma Prieta earthquake was a wake-up call for Marina developers; the reconstruction effort brought with it new standards of earthquake-sturdy construction, and within a decade the Marina had been rebuilt and revamped with a shiny new face and s stronger bone structure.

Today the apartment buildings, shops and restaurants seem to be bursting at their seams with beautiful, young and fit 20- and 30-somethings. The singles scene is hopping on Friday and Saturday nights, with lots of fresh-faced postgrads with cocktails in one hand and cell phones in the other. Union is arguably the best street in the city to window-shop the hours away on a sunny Saturday afternoon, and, a few blocks down, Chestnut has an incredible variety of high-quality restaurants catering to every palate.

If you're looking for diversity or an edgy or progressive feel, the Marina probably isn't your neighborhood -- unless you count Fort Mason, which hosts a bounty of cultural museums and nonprofits. Overall, this is the land of SUVs, chic fashion and killer spa treatments. Love it, or leave it to the pretty young things who call it home or home-away-from-home.


Best Time To Go

Sunny weekend days are truly dreamy in the Marina, especially down by the water. As far as Chestnut and Union are concerned, just follow this motto: Any day is a good day for shopping; any night, a good night for dining. If you're looking for a mellow or sophisticated night out, stay away from the infamous "Triangle" (Fillmore at Greenwich) bar scene on Friday and Saturday nights. And unless you want to pay to park in one of the neighborhood's few garages, don't drive to the Marina; finding a parking spot can take up to an hour.


Sights & Culture

Crissy Field: In a relatively short period of time -- since 1921 -- Crissy Field has been transformed from one of the country's most important and active military airstrips into an abandoned stretch of crumbling asphalt into the recent crowning achievement of the Golden Gate National Parks Association. With over $34 million in grants and donations (the vast majority were private gifts under $100), the GGNPA has fulfilled its vision of creating a space that synthesizes recreational public space with environmental restoration. Walkers and joggers have embraced the field's shoreline path, known as the Golden Gate Promenade, and on sunny days, kids, picnickers and Frisbee enthusiasts blanket the grassy 28-acre expanse. Cyclists have their own bike-only path, and, when the wind is good, world-class sailboarders can be seen skipping and soaring across the water. On the environmental end, huge portions of Crissy Field's original airstrip have been pulled up to allow for the attempted restoration of 20 acres of original tidal marshland. So far, the effort looks promising; for the first time in 60 years, some native animals are timidly beginning to show their faces in the area. The Crissy Field Conservation Center is a progressive, multicultural community environmental center providing various programs addressing the wide range of issues and concerns Crissy Field faces as a park straddling urban and environmental boundaries. (GGNPA Web site)

Chronicle articles on Crissy Field:
- Crissy Field: The city's front yard
- Get toasty at the Warming Hut
- S.F.'s re-created marsh is gleaming
- Planes are history at vintage airstrip

Fort Mason: Like Crissy Field, Fort Mason is a former military enclave now protected under the auspices of the Golden Gate National Parks Association. Visitors will most likely want to focus on the lower buildings and piers, officially know as Fort Mason Center. The center provides a wealth of cultural and educational societies, museums and nonprofits, including but not limited to the San Francisco African American Historical and Cultural Society, Long Now Foundation Museum and Store and the Museu ItaloAmericano. Fort Mason hosts numerous performances, festivals and exhibits throughout the year, so be sure to check the calendar at www.fortmason.org or call (415) 441-3400 before you go. (Fort Mason Hostel)

Palace of Fine Arts: Created as the landmark building for the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exposition, the Palace of Fine Arts is indisputably the Marina's (if not all of San Francisco's) architectural grand dame. Though the structure was specifically designed to honor the completion of the Panama Canal (and was intended to be temporary), its construction and the exposition itself were symbols to city residents and to the world that San Francisco had overcome -- and in fact risen above -- the catastrophe of the 1906 earthquake and its consuming fire. Today the Palace of Fine Arts is home to one of the city's most beloved museums, the Exploratorium, which hosts more than 600 science and art exhibits, including the Tactile Dome, an experiential maze designed to disorient the senses. Call ahead to find out about special events and exhibits. 3601 Lyon St., (415) 397-5673. (Exploratorium Web site; The Palace of Fine Arts: A Brief History of the Exploratorium's Home)
> Palace of Fine Arts is poised for a makeover (8/05)

Galleries:

Hespe Gallery: Hespe primarily represents emerging and mid-career California-based painters and artists. Shows in this small space change monthly and openings are often held on second Thursdays, though there are a few held on Saturdays.1764 Union St., (415) 776-5918. (Web site)

Hourian Fine Art Galleries: The space is a bit disheveled, but this small gallery has a decent selection of paintings and prints from local artists, including works by owner Mohammad Hourian himself. The gallery also offers custom framing and restoration. 1843 Union St., (415) 346-6400. (Web site)

Images of the North: North in the case of this gallery refers to the Arctic, featuring Inuit sculptures, prints, masks, and jewelry. Sculptures of bears, eagles, and mythological figures fill the space. 2036 Union St., (415) 673-1273.


Restaurants

Abigail's: The beautiful pastries are crafted by owner Cuong Do, but it's chef Josh Bush who has created the California-French menu that makes Abigail's a spot that has the potential to become a neighborhood staple. (Chronicle Review)

Ace Wasabi: Hip, loud, young and hot: This is either the casting-call note for "Melrose Place" or the description of Ace Wasabi's Rock and Roll Sushi. Either way, Ace's does have decent sushi for a reasonable price, but the flavor of the place will either keep you coming back or drive you fast and far away. Update: a new "protein-friendly" menu includes sushi rolls wrapped in daikon instead of rice. 3339 Steiner St. (near Lombard), (415) 567-4903. (Chronicle Review)

Alegrias: Tapas like tortilla espanola, sauteed spinach and baked goat cheese are fabulous. Wonderful flan. (-SF Chronicle) 2018 Lombard St. (near Webster Street), (415) 929-8888. (Chronicle Review)

Andale Taqueria: Don't let the "taqueria" fool you; this restaurant exudes a clean, fresh, healthy aura. Stop by on a nice day and enjoy a plate of beautifully displayed, 100 percent unprocessed, thoroughly tasty Mexican food on the spacious patio. 2150 Chestnut St., (415) 749-0506.

Baker Street Bistro: Great prices for excellently prepared, classically inspired French fare. Good service, cozy dining room. (-SF Chronicle) 2953 Baker St. (near Lombard), (415) 931-1475. (Chronicle Review)

Barney's Hamburgers: What first strikes the eye in this eatery is the lineup of Best Burger awards from a variety of sources. Barney's sets the mood with a comfortable wood decor, or there is an outdoor garden. Vegetarians can delight in an extensive list of garden and tofu burgers as well as several salad specialties. 3344 Steiner St., (415) 563-6921.

Betelnut: This self-described "pan-Asian tapas" restaurant is bursting with atmosphere and flavor. Giant fans swoosh back and forth from the ceiling while waiters carrying trays of towering tropical cocktails nudge their way around customers in the usually packed bar. While it may be an impossible to get same-day reservations, Betelnut does take walk-ins. The minced chicken with lettuce cups, spareribs, crispy calamari and towering tropical cocktails are worth planning ahead for or waiting in line for. A parking garage is conveniently located just across the street. 2030 Union St., (415) 929-8855. (Chronicle Review)

Bistro Aix: Local Marina dwellers head to this understated, calming bistro for its fresh food and list of 150 wines, mostly French and Spanish. The chef uses simple ingredients and offers organic daily specials. The menu takes on several international flavors, including a thin-crust pizza, several pastas, and duck confit. Aix is open only for dinner. 3340 Steiner St., (415) 202-0100. (Chronicle Review)

Bistro Yoffi: The food, by all accounts, is yummy California fare with Mediterranean accents, but it's Bistro Yoffi's charming ambience that will bring first-timers back for more. This small, skinny bistro, decorated primarily with dozens of lush potted plants and colorful Tuscan village-style accents, is quaintly romantic. 2231 Chestnut St., (415) 885-5133. (Chronicle Review)

Bombay Curry House: Maria Therese Kinard, who closed her tiny Marina District eatery in 2001, Maria Therese, has reopened the space as Bombay Curry House. Whereas Maria Therese was a French restaurant, Kinard, who was born in India, has gone back to her roots to open the first Indian restaurant in the Marina. The tiny space (40 seats) is open for lunch and dinner daily. The menu features traditional Indian favorites, with entrees generally under $10, and the most expensive item -- rack of lamb -- at $14.95. At those prices, it's no wonder she's packed most nights. (-SF Chronicle) 2034 Chestnut St. (at Fillmore), (415) 567-8124.

Brazen Head: An English pub atmosphere offering a mostly American menu. Dishes can be inconsistent but braised short ribs, pepper steak and scampi are fine. Open late. (-SF Chronicle) 3166 Buchanan St. (at Greenwich), (415) 921-7600. (Chronicle Review)

Cafe Organic Lettus: California cuisine with global touches, like Asian-inspired mango chicken lettuce cups with chile-tamarind sauce, or Mediterranean-style butter bean bruschetta. Vegans will love the quinoa bowl topped with vegetables and ginger-miso sauce. Organic ingredients are used wherever possible, with a focus on fresh, local produce. That's particularly evident in the made-to-order salads, with a variety of healthy seasonal toppings. Breakfast is served all day and includes indulgent choices like lemon-ricotta pancakes and French toast. Diners order at the counter and servers bring the food to the table. The narrow spot is sleek and noisy, with backlit wood-slatted walls and cool tones of green and gray. (-SF Chronicle) 3352 Steiner St. (near Chestnut Street), (415) 931-2777.

Cafe Maritime: Evoking a New England seafood shack with hammered galvanized steel covering the tables, a boat-shaped wooden bar and a wave-like, silvery divider, Cafe Maritime offers seasonal catches like soft shell crab and Copper River King salmon. Appetizers include grilled calamari with smoked tomato sauce and lime-spiked creme fraiche, and grilled sardines served over white bean sauce and a tart salsa verde. Alaskan halibut and Oregon Bay shrimp linguine are among the entrees. Hand-cut Kennebec fries, finer than even shoestring fries, accompany the lobster roll and hanger steak. Desserts include coconut cream pie, a hot fudge sundae and root beer float. (-SF Chronicle) 2417 Lombard St. (at Scott), (415) 885-2530. Dinner nightly. (Chronicle Review)

City Tavern: Stick to simple favorites like fried calamari with remoulade dipping sauce and crispy pizzas at this inviting pub/restaurant. (-SF Chronicle) 3200 Fillmore St. (at Greenwich), (415) 567-0918. (Chronicle Review)

Cozmos Corner Bar & Grill: Since its opening in November 2001, Cozmos has steadily built a reputation as a Marina hangout. The brick walls and large center bar give Cozmos a casual feel. Though entrees change daily, some past specialties have included rare seared ahi with a sticky rice cake and stir fried Chinese long beans and wasabi aioli. Small snacks to accompany drinks are available, such as fried green olives filled with Gorgonzola. The upstairs is for sipping cocktails after dinner. 2001 Chestnut Street, (415) 351-0175. (Chronicle Review)

D Den: Neatly presented Thai dishes, including good larb ped, salmon yang and panang gung. Intimate atmosphere and caring service. (-SF Chronicle) 2120 Greenwich (near Fillmore), (415) 292-0770. (Chronicle Review)

Dragon Well: This tiny, airy pan-Asian food joint offers a small selection of healthy, flavorful dishes at moderate prices. 2142 Chestnut St., (415) 474-6888. (Chronicle Review)

E'Angelo: Old-fashioned Italian dishes haven't changed and neither has the small, crowded dining room. Good preparation of veal Parmigiana, pasta carbonara, and pizza. Fast, efficient service. (-SF Chronicle) 2234 Chestnut St. (between Pierce and Scott), (415) 567-6164. (Chronicle Review)

Emporio Rulli Gran Caffe: Stop in to this Northern Italian-influenced cafe for a quick breakfast or housemade panini, soups and salads. The cafe offers a large selection of homemade Italian gelato and pastries, such as cassata, a traditional ricotta cheesecake. A wine bar serves Italian wines, small plates and dinner until 10 p.m. A Venetian chandelier hangs from the ceiling under a mural by Italian artist Carlo Marchiori. On sunny days, savor that shot of espresso at one of the many outdoor seats. (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 2300 Chestnut St. (at Scott), (415) 923-6464.

Enoshima: The sushi chefs can get quite creative at Enoshima, offering nearly 60 types of rolls. Creations include volcano make -- spicy tuna with jalapeno and tobiko -- as well as the New York roll -- shrimp, cream cheese, and avocado. Sashimi dinners, noodle soups, and teriyaki dinners are all popular. Prices are very reasonable, which makes it easier to partake in much experimentation. 2280 Chestnut St., (415) 563-0162.

Gatip Classic Thai Cuisine: For those who like their Thai food spicy and authentic, Gatip is the place to come. Although perched on a not-so-beautiful plot on Lombard, Gatip welcomes hungry diners with aromatic red, yellow and green curries, wonderfully flavored pad thai and a post-dinner Thai iced tea that is out of this world. And for the orthodox Thai-food crowd, yes, Gatip does have a sticky-rice side dish. 2205 Lombard St., (415) 292-7474.

Greens: A favorite with the noncarnivorous set, Greens serves up award-winning vegetarian cuisine in a setting that showcases one of San Francisco's best restaurant views; the west-facing wall of Greens is a window looking straight out toward the Marina and the Golden Gate Bridge. Still, the five-star service, nice wine selection and creatively designed, totally scrumptious vegetarian food steal the show. Building A, Fort Mason, (415) 771-6222. (Chronicle Review)
> Greens celebrates 25 years

Grove Cafe: Ah, the Grove, a breath of fresh air on busy Chestnut Street. Tasty salads and a great selection of teas,