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1942—Modern Pattern Design
by Harriet Pepin
Table of Contents—Long
Pattern Designing
Description of Pattern Designing Equipment
Model Forms and How to Use Them
Analysis of the Feminine Silhouette
Explanation of Patterns
Procedure Used to Make a Pattern
Seam Allowances
Pattern Symbols
Cutting the Muslin Proof
Tracing the Muslin Proof
Pinning the Muslin Proof
Shoulder, Underarm and Waistline Darts
Dart Tucks and How to Use Them
Dividing the Control Darts
Multiple Darts and How They are Used
Spacing in Design
Yokes Combined with Control Darts
Relationship in Design
Drapery in Design
Concealing the Control in Yoke Seams
Center Front Control—Horizontal and Vertical
Adaptations of Center Front Control
Cowl Necklines
Planning Laps for Closing Garments
Simulated Cowl Designs
Simulated Yokes, Plastrons, etc
How to Prepare the Pattern for Zipper Closings
Surplice Closings
Simple Revers
Formal and Informal Balance in Design
Practice Cutting Problems
Decollete Garments, Bathing Suits, etc.
Slopers
Slopers of Foundation Patterns
How to Take Measurements for Drafting Slopers
Where Measurements are Taken
Chart of Garment Measurements
How to Draft the Front Bodice Sloper
How to Draft the Back Bodice Sloper
Analysis of Various Types of Figures
Common Faults of Fitting and How to Correct Them
Adding Ease to the Front Bodice
Analysis of the Need for Control in Fitting Back Bodice
Shifting Basic Shoulder Control Darts
Shifting Shoulder Control into Yoke Seams
How to Eliminate the Waistline Control Dart
How to Move Fundamental Seams for the Sake of Design
Variations in Designs for the Back Bodice
Practice Problems Involving Fundamental Seams
Hip Length Patterns
Discussion of Ways to Fit Jackets
Partial Waistline Seams
Semi-Fitted Silhouette
Vertical Seams as a Sole Means to Fitting
How to Draft the Front Hip-length Jacket Sloper
How to Draft the Back Hip-Length Jacket Sloper
How to Complete the Front and Back Jacket Slopers
How to Make the Semi-Fitted Jacket Pattern
How to Introduce Multiple Darts at the Waistline in Jackets
Origin of the French Lining Design
How to Make the Pattern for a French Lining
Analysis of the Peplum Style of Jacket
Analysis of the Panel Style of Jacket Providing Partial Waistline Seams
Sleeve Patterns
Analysis for the Need for Shaping the Sleeve
How to Locate Measurement Points
Where Measurements are Taken
How to Draft the Sleeve Sloper
Shaping the Sleeve Cap Properly
Points to Watch When Making Personal Sleeve Slopers
How to Fit the Personal Sleeve Muslin
Points to be Tested for a Well Fitted Sleeve
The Method Used to Make a Folded Sleeve Sloper
Shifting Control to Little Finger Position
Variations of the Finger Control
Analysis of Coat Sleeves and their Functional Characteristics
How to Make the Semi-Fitted One-Piece Coat Sleeve
How to Make the Straight Coat Sleeve Eliminating Elbow Control
How to Draft the Two-Piece Coat Sleeve
Folded Sloper Used to Produce Variations of Sleeve Designs
Bishop Sleeve
Straight Coat Sleeve
Sleeves with Simulated Cuffs
Sleeves with Fitted Cuffs
Adaptations of a Straight Coat Sleeve Sloper to Create New Designs
Methods for Making Various Types of Short Puffed Sleeves
Leg-of-Mutton Silhouettes and How to Produce Them
Novelty Adaptations of Sleeve Silhouettes Including
Balanced Fullness
Circular Cutting
Cowl Sleeves
Yokes in Sleeves
Adaptations of Style Sleeves to Produce New Designs
Variations of Sleeves Made from the Two-Piece Sleeve Sloper
Adapting Patterns
Analysis of Garments for Utility Purposes
Active Sports Clothing
Spectator Sports or Business Wear
Social Clothes—Afternoon and Evening
Adjustments of Armscye and Sleeve Cap for Utility Purposes
Preparing Pattern for Padding Shoulders
Enlarging a Sleeve Proportionately to Fit Enlarged Armscye
Enlarging Sleeve in Bicep Measurement
Lengthening Sleeve Cap
Dangers in Careless Adjustments
Analysis of Novelty Shoulder Treatments
How to Draft the Strap Shoulder
How to Draft the Raglan Shoulder
How to Draft Pattern for a Kimono Shoulder
How to Draft the Dolman Shoulder
Analysis of Methods Used to Produce Novelty Designs Based Upon:
Raglan Shoulder Pattern
Dolman Shoulder Pattern
How to Produce an Exaggerated Shoulder in Raglan Styles
Capes, Ties, Neckwear and Scarves
Origin of Capes in Fashion
Importance in the Fitting of Capes
Analysis of the Two Basic Cape Silhouettes:
Dolman Cape
Circular Cape
How to Take Measurements for Cape Pattern Drafts
How to Draft the Dolman Cape
How to Draft the Circular Cape
Analysis of Need for Shoulder Control in Dolman Cape
Variations of Dolman and Circular Capes and Methods for Making Them
Analysis of Fabrics Used for Capes in Varying Silhouettes
Analysis of Scarves and Ties
Cravat
Windsor Tie
Four-in-Hand
Stock Collar Type
Importance of Bows in Fashion
Analysis of Types of Bows:
Shoe-String Tailored Bow
Boxy Tailored Bow
French Bow
Scarf Bow
How to Produce Detachable and Attached Jabots
How to Cut Detachable and Attached Revers
Collars
Importance of the Well Fitting Collar
Vocabulary Pertaining to Collars
Attached Collars
How to Make a Collar Sloper
How to Draft the Flat Collar
Important Points in Designing the Plastron Collar
How to Cut the Well Fitting Bertha Collar
How Rippled Collars are Made
Elizabethan Collars
Half Roll Collars
Simple Style
Sailor Type
Shawl Type
Full Roll Collars
Analysis of the Mannish Shirt Collar
Analysis of Convertible Collars
Active Sports Collars
Reefer Collars
Tailored Suit Collars and Their Importance in the Wardrobe
The Four Basic Points for Variety of Style
Method for Drafting Tailored Suit Collars
How to Assemble Convertible and Tailored Suit Collars
Variations in Design of Tailored Suit Collars
Double Breasted Styles
Single Breasted with Low Closing
Single Breasted with High Closing
Tuxedo Closing
Single Breasted Shawl Collar
Summary Showing Proportions to Lengthen Folding Line
Raised Necklines and Points on Fitting Them
Analysis of Collarless Necklines
Analysis of Methods Used for Producing Style Cuffs
Skirts
The Importance of the Skirt in the Wardrobe
Vocabulary of Skirt Terms
How Skirt Measurements are Taken
How to Make the Simple Skirt Sloper Draft
Comparative Analysis of Skirt Slopers for Varying Figures
How to Draft the Tailored Suit Skirt Pattern and its Uses
Skirt Patterns Cut According to Width of Fabric Being Used
Circular Skirts with Varying Degrees of Fullness
Simulated Circular Skirts
Four, Six, Eight and Ten Gored Skirts with Variations in Sweep and Break Levels
Skirts Including Flounces
Godets in Skirts
Adding Pleats to Gored Skirts
Pleats Adjoining Panels
Pleats Used in Asymmetric Designs
Pleats at an Angle—Off Grain
Novelty Skirts Including Variations of Principles for Cutting
Skirts with Backward Movement
Cowl Novelty Skirts
Peg-Top Silhouettes
Drapery Added to Panels
Draped Peplums—Jabot—Wrap Around Style
Slacks, Shorts, Culottes, and Bathing Suits
Analysis of Trouser-Like Garments in the Woman's Wardrobe
How to Take Measurements for Slacks
How to Draft the Basic Slack Pattern
How to Draft Utility Hip-Length Sloper Pattern for Making Slacks
How to Make the Straight Culotte Pattern from Basic Skirt Sloper
Show to Make the Semi-Circular Culotte Pattern from Four-Piece Gored Skirt
Methods Used for Introducing Style Interest in Slacks
Novelty Adaptations of the Basic Slack Sloper:
"Clam Diggers"
"Western Frontiers"
"Bathing Trunks"
"Regulation Navies"
Novelty Adaptations of the Basic Straight Culotte Pattern:
Inverted Center Front Pleats
Straight Pleated Shorts
Novelty Adaptations of the Semi-Circular Culotte Pattern:
Lounging Robe
Circular Pleated Shorts
Lingerie
Analysis of Garments Classified in Lingerie Group
Importance of Functional Features in Lingerie Designs
Basic Requirements of Lingerie Designs
How to Cut Panties, Bloomers, from a Basic Slack Draft
How to Cut Simulated Circular Panties from Culotte Draft
Analysis of Methods Used to Produce Slip Patterns
Analysis of Three Types of Slips:
Princess Fitted Type
Bra-Top Bias Style
Novelty Bias Slip
The Importance of the Brassiere in the Wardrobe
Analysis of Modern Brassieres Designed for Specific Purposes
Methods for Making Brassiere Patterns
Analysis of Functional Features Required in Nightgowns and Pajamas
Functional Classification of Hostess Gowns
Analysis of the House or Breakfast Coat
Adaptation of Designs to Certain Fabrics to Design Hostess Gowns and House Coats
Coats
Analysis of the Functional Features of Outer Garments
Characteristics of Fabrics Used for Coats and Wraps
The Need for Properly Lining Outer Garments
Analysis of Varying Basic Silhouettes of Coats:
Vertical Seam Fitting
Seamed Waistline with Control Darts
Combination of First Two
Straight, Boxy, or Swagger Types
Combination of Fitted and Swagger Silhouettes
Analysis of Vertical Seam Fitting to Produce Coat Pattern
How the Seamed Waistline May be Used with Panel Front
Front Fullness Introduced in Panel Style of Coat
How to Produce the True Boxy Silhouette with Padded Shoulder
Method Used to Produce a Swagger Silhouette Under Yoke
How a Single Design may be Adapted to Different Silhouettes
The Importance of Specialized Study for Careers in Coat Desining
Children's Clothing
Analysis of the Sizing of Children's Clothing
Trends in Fashion for Children's Clothing
Classification of Children's Sizes
Analysis of Children's Figures
How to Measure the Child's Figure to Make a Sloper
Children's Measurement Chart
How to Draft the Child's Front Sloper Pattern
How to Draft the Child's Back Sloper Pattern
How to Draft the Child's Sleeve Sloper
Adaptations of the Block for Children's Pattern Designs
Fullness under Yokes
Combination Fitting with Partial Waistline Seam
Vertical Fitting
Methods for Drafting Hoods
