In Sicily's sun, real estate is as mixed as the island landscape

Prices, which have been rising as much as 20 percent a year, still seem reasonable, especially to north Europeans but even to Italians from Milan and Turin.

By Kate Singleton

Published: February 21, 2008

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MODICA, Sicily: When Sicilians claim that their homeland is a continent, not an island, they are not trying to redefine geography. They are simply drawing attention to the remarkable variety of landscapes, microclimates, gastronomic traditions and historical heritages to be found here.

Variety is also the distinguishing characteristic of the Sicilian property market. Prices, which have been rising as much as 20 percent a year, still seem reasonable, especially to north Europeans but even to Italians from Milan and Turin. There are plenty of handsome townhouses with frescoed ceilings, palaces with some original furnishings, country villas surrounded by lemon groves, fortified farmsteads and even the odd castle.

What is more, concern about the Mafia seems to be fading from the picture. You are not likely to be caught in mob crossfire, not even in Palermo. In fact, you will find people courteous and welcoming and the quality of life remarkably high.

"We had been mulling over buying in the South of France, then went to Sicily on holiday and thought, 'This is it!,' " said Deborah Greatorex, an interior designer based in London. "So we started looking on the Internet and found www.sicilianhomes.com, which had just the right property for us."

"Angelo Campagna, who runs the agency with his wife, is an architect of Sicilian origin who has worked in London," Greatorex said. "Doing the place up with him has been exciting and relatively easy."

Greatorex paid €500,000, or $725,000, for a mid-19th century villa with 3.6 hectares, or 9 acres, of land, including 365 olive trees and a small vineyard. It is on the northeastern slopes of Mount Etna, a short drive from either the sea or winter skiing on the summit. An extensive restoration - including addition of a swimming pool, a tennis court and a maze - has cost a little more than €500,000.

A reliable real estate agent is essential in Sicily. Properties for sale are not always advertised; prices are not always declared; and the sellers may be several heirs, some of whom have long been living abroad.

Sicilian Homes operates largely in the areas best known to visitors: Taormina in the east, with the towns on Mount Etna just behind it; and Cefalù, on the Tyrrhenian Sea between Palermo and Messina.

In recent years Ortigia, the historic center of Syracuse on the southeast tip, has joined the list of favored locations. A small island of great antiquity and charm, it is linked to the mainland by a bridge and has been revitalized by investment and renovation.

Ramsay Gilderdale handles properties from Syracuse through what is known as the Baroque Valley in southeast Sicily: Ragusa, Modica, Scicli and Noto, which have acquired recognition as Unesco World Heritage Sites for their gloriously ornate architecture.

After years in London as a successful actor and screenwriter, Gilderdale decided in 2004 to settle in Modica, where he has opened an agency that caters to clients from the United States, Britain, France, the Netherlands, Scandinavia and beyond. Real estate is offered at a wide range of prices on the site www.modicasa.com, while properties over €1 million are listed at www.baroccoproperty.com.

"Half of the people who come to me are looking for a 200- to 300-square-meter country property with some land and a nice view, and about 20 percent for a townhouse," Gilderdale said. He thinks this pattern of looking for 2,100 to 3,200 square feet of land may change when a new airport opens at Comiso, a 30-minute drive from Modica. The airport is expected to absorb the low-cost air service that now flies into Catania, plus other traffic.

"People investing in a second home for shorter visits throughout the year don't always want land," Gilderdale said. "The towns around here are eminently liveable. Many districts are pedestrian, offer wonderful views and have shops and some excellent restaurants a 10-minute walk away."

Gilderdale described the Sicilian property market as "vibrant." Country and town properties are available for as little as €60,000, though for a building of particular architectural interest the starting price is nearer €250,000.

For €500,000, he has a palazzo in Modica, part of which has its original silk wallpapers, frescoed ceilings, ceramic flooring and period furnishings, all in good condition.

Most of the less expensive properties need major rebuilding, which means applying for permits. In addition, many places also require approval from both a heritage commission and an organization of civil engineers that ensures appropriate earthquake precautions are taken.

Gilderdale can introduce purchasers to a Sicilian architect who has worked abroad and who speaks French, Spanish and English. The architect's focus is on energy-saving and environmentally sound materials, including the lovely pale local stone.