La Clusaz, France - Tucked away in high hidden Alpine valleys of France's Haute-Savoie region are small, medieval villages with ancient church spires and stunning ski slopes, where the runs are open from the first winter snows until mountain flowers begin to poke up in late spring.

La Clusaz, an 11th century village nestled in the soft folds of the Aravis Valley with its one main street, no stop lights and a bell that rings to remind you every hour that you are relaxed and happy, is one of them.

Small towns like La Clusaz can be easily overlooked by foreign travelers lured by better-known resorts nearby that have long lost their local charm and gone global. For the curious traveller seeking more than just fresh powder, the forests, craggy peaks and cozy apres-ski restaurants with local cuisine here offer a true taste of France.

La Clusaz has a variety of runs, from vertical drops, twisting trails, and big bumps that will tempt the experts, to easy slopes winding through fir and birch forests for the novice. That variety makes it a perfect place for families, beginners and groups of friends with different levels of ski abilities.

My husband never leaves the top of the mountains

From the top of the Col de Balme at 2 600 metres, the intrepid skier can spot the legendary Mont Blanc off in the distance near the border with Italy, and on a clear day the mist that settles this time of year over Lake Geneva is visible, just 50km away.

To earn a chance at a view of France's highest peak, however, skiers must be able to navigate the toughest slopes; from the top, it's ski down only. The ride up, though, is comfortable, for La Clusaz has just made major improvements to its gondola lifts throughout the resort, improving access to a whole series of intermediate and beginner runs.

La Clusaz connects five peaks among four villages with 86 slopes over 132km of trails, accessible by 57 lifts. The ski bus connects all four from early morning to after dark, and it's free with your ski pass. The ski area has accommodations for the handicapped - such as ramps instead of stairs - and there is plenty to do for those who don't ski, including visits to nearby farms and wineries.

My family came to La Clusaz for the first time in 1998 and we've spent seven ski holidays there since then. My daughter started at age 3 on skis and no poles. She can now take the toughest expert runs, and even I am up to intermediate after starting from scratch. My husband never leaves the top of the mountains.

My daughter and I learned with ESF, the Ecole du Ski Francais, or the French Ski School, a national program that hires only certified instructors and teaches all levels, from beginners to top competitors. The stress is on technique, safety and respect for others. A couple of hours a day in class can make anybody feel comfortable on skis. And if you want to practice your French, this is the perfect opportunity although the instructors speak a fistful of languages.

A highlight this year for my daughter, now 10, was a day spent skiing off the trails identifying wild mountain goat, hare and fox tracks.

Downhill skiing is the biggest draw at La Clusaz, mixing easily with the snowboard and freestyle crowd on the wide slopes. There is plenty for those who want to get closer to nature, including 70km of cross-country trails at Les Confins, site of the 2004 World Cup.

La Clusaz prides itself on skiing in sun, rain or snow - and even under moonlight, which sounds eerie but is truly extraordinary. Every month when the moon is full and the snow fresh, La Clusaz opens the intermediate runs from 10pm to 1am for a magical moment of skiing under the full moon.

The bumps are a bit tough to spot in the dark, but there is plenty to do the next day for those with sore limbs.

At 1 100m, La Clusaz lies fairly low in the mountains, and although snow cannons belch white stuff when real powder is scarce, sometimes there just isn't much snow, and sometimes it's slushy.

The town has taken care to expand the range of things to do when the slopes are scratchy. There is an indoor/outdoor swimming complex, where it's wonderful to do the backstroke with the mountains above and snowflakes that fall down and cool the cheeks. Inside you'll find full spa service, with everything from a suntan salon to sauna and Jacuzzi to soothe those aching muscles.

Then there is skating, sledding, sleigh rides - even snowmobiling or dog sledding.

Once a week, it is worth staying off the slopes and in the streets for the Monday morning traveling market. Food is at the heart of any French travel experience and nothing is fresher than what's at the market.

One of the best ways to keep costs down and experience the culinary delights of this region is to rent an apartment with a kitchen and do as many French visitors do - cook for yourself.

The tradition of making Reblochon, a round white cheese with a pungent crust, dates to the 13th century. A specialty of La Clusaz, it comes from the milk of cows that pasture high in the Alps in the summer. A favorite local dish is tartiflette, a mixture of potatoes and bacon, with a whole round of Reblochon cut in half and laid across the top before the casserole goes in the oven. For wine, a local red Mondeuse or white Apremont adds just the right touch.

The plunging dollar has put off many American tourists, but it shouldn't. Apartment rentals are reasonable, and the bus system is easy to use. No need for expensive hotels or rental cars. And La Clusaz, like most French ski resorts, has its own Internet site in English. We have brought friends without a word of French from as far away as San Francisco and Moscow - and some have come back more than once. We sure will go back again.